The Fairy Fade Throw Blanket

Making a blanket for another person is a special thing to me. Blankets are inherently time-consuming, but when I imagine the recipient wrapping themselves in it and keeping warm I also feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

I think a lot of us are looking for some comforting projects right now, and what better way to use up some of your stash than a beautiful blanket. If you have a stash of fuzzy yarn lying around I suggest this easy and meditative blanket to make something for someone you love (yourself included!).

This blanket is made using bulky yarn (I used Lion Brand Homespun) and is entirely made of half double crochets so it’s very beginner friendly. You can make the color fade as bright or as neutral as you’d like, the possibilities are endless! Just grab 5 colors you like together and a neutral shade to pull them together, like the white I used, and you’re on your way to a beautiful throw blanket.

The Fairy Fade Throw Blanket

Materials:

  • 7 balls (1,295 yards) of bulky weight (level 5) yarn: 5 balls of different colors and 2 balls of a neutral color, like white. Pictured is Lion Brand Homespun in Barrington (Color A), Mixed Berries (Color B), Purple Aster (Color C), Oyster (Color D), Tudor (Color E), Hepplewhite (Color F)
  • Size N 10 mm crochet hook
  • Large eye sewing needle
  • Scissors

Stitch Abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Stitch (ST)

-Half Double Crochet (HDC)

Size:

50” wide, 60” long

Gauge:

4”x4”= 6 rows x 8 HDC

Notes:

The size of this blanket very customizable. Follow the gauge and increase or decrease the starting chain any number, and continue adding rows in sequence or remove rows to make it larger or smaller.

To make the color changes easier, do not cut the yarn as soon as you reach the white sections. Leave the first color attached while you add the white and complete two rows. When you get back to the colored yarn, bring the yarn up along the side and continue with the next two rows. Do this for the white as well so you only have to join and weave in the ends at the end of each fade section.

Pattern:

CH 100

Row 1: Using Color A, HDC in the 2nd CH from the hook. HDC across (99 ST).

Row 2: CH 1. Turn. HDC across. (99 ST)

Repeat Row 2 for 10 total rows of Color A.

Row 11 and 12: Join Color F and repeat Row 2 for 2 rows. Do not cut yet (see notes).

Repeat row 2 throughout the blanket in the following sequence:

Row 13 and 14: Color A

R 15, 16: Color F

R 17, 18: Color B

R 19, 20: Color F

R 21-30: Color B

R 31, 32: Color F

R 33, 34: Color B

R 35, 36: Color F

R 37, 38: Color C

R 39, 40: Color F

R 41-50: Color C

R 51, 52: Color F

R 53, 54: Color C

R 55, 56: Color F

R 57, 58: Color D

R 59, 60: Color F

R 61, 70: Color D

R 71, 72: Color F

R 73, 74: Color D

R 75, 76: Color F

R 77, 78: Color E

R 79, 80: Color F

R 81-90: Color E

If you make your own Fairy Fade Blanket, be sure to tag me on Instagram! Be well everyone.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Pisces Shawl

I am so excited to introduce the Pisces Shawl! Get the crochet pattern now on my Etsy!

This pattern joins my February Sky Scarf in my February patterns, and this one has a very special place in my heart. It’s my first shawl pattern, and I knew I had to make it perfect- drapey, detailed, and a long triangle shape that works as a wrap or as a cozy scarf. This hits all the marks!

This shawl uses a few different techniques, like double crocheting clusters and triple crocheting into the front post of the previous row. But don’t let that put you off- this pattern is advanced-beginner friendly, and I wrote the row repeats so that once you get a few rows done and understand the repetitions you’ll be able to breeze through this project.

If you are used to only working with worsted weight yarn, this is a great project to try DK weight! It’s a little lighter, but you can still use a larger hook so the shawl has tons of drape and works up quickly. I made two shawls, one in Malabrigo Arroyo yarn (pictured above in “Reflecting Pool” and “Anniversario”) and one using Lion Brand Mandala in Warlock (below).

The pattern is available on my Etsy. I hope you’ll try this pattern! When you do, be sure to tag me on instagram @februaryskydesigns and use the hashtag #piscesshawl!

The Snowy Willow Knit Hat

When I decided to teach myself to knit it felt like a tall mountain to climb. Maybe because I learned to crochet first, but knitting seemed intimidating and finicky. How to hold the needles, how many stitches to cast on, what abbreviations mean, how long it takes compared to crochet- these are all obstacles I had to overcome before I could complete my first wonky hat. But that hat gave me a sense of accomplishment that was addicting, and I went on a knit hat bender, making at least one that I was actually happy with. It turns out that with bulky yarn and big needles a hat doesn’t actually take that long!

So if you have some basic knitting skills and want an easy hat that you can finish in a couple of hours, look no further than the Snowy Willow hat . This beginner-friendly project requires that you’re familiar with knitting, but the color work is all down to the yarn you choose and at the end you’ll have a cozy and pretty hat that you can be proud of (and that makes a great gift!).

I made two versions of the hat- one using two strands of Caron Latte Cakes held together, and one holding Latte Cakes and Simply soft together. Both versions of the hat are ridiculously soft, and depending on the colors you choose and where you pick up the self-striping Latte Cakes yarn you can get some really pretty color changes in your hat, all without changing yarns or having more ends to weave in!

You’ll start off with a long tail cast on using 9mm circular knitting needles, and after joining in the round you’ll make your brim.

The hat brim is a basic rib with alternating knits and purls, and you can make it thicker or thinner by adding or subtracting a couple rows. My brim is about 2 inches after 8 rows.

Once the brim is done you’ll switch to the 10 mm needles to make the hat body. This is the quick and easy part as it’s entirely knit stitches, and before you know it you’re ready to finish the hat with a couple rows of decreases!

Below you’ll see the two versions of the hat. The first is made holding two strands of Latte Cakes together and the pom is made of the same yarn, so all you need is one skein to make the whole hat (or two or three hats, as these skeins are huge!). The second hat is made holding Latte Cakes and Simply Soft together and finished with a faux fur pom if you’re feeling a little fancy.

Let’s get to the pattern!

The Snowy Willow Knit Hat Pattern

Materials:

-One skein Caron Latte Cakes (colorway shown is Pepper Ash)

-One skein Caron Simply Soft (colorway shown is Off White) (optional)

-9 mm 16 in. circular knitting needles

-10 mm 16 in. circular knitting needles

-large eye sewing needle

-stitch marker

-fur pom (optional)

Notes:

  • This beanie is made by holding two strands of yarn together. You can choose to either hold one strand of Latte Cakes (a level 5 yarn, but on the thin side) with a strand of Simply Soft, or you can hold two strands of Latte Cakes or two strands of Simply Soft of other worsted weight yarn together. Your finished hat size may vary slightly depending on your yarn and tension.
  • Techniques you’ll need to know prior to following this pattern are the long tail cast on, joining in the round, the knit stitch, the purl stitch, and knitting two stitches together.
  • 8 rows of ribbing measures about 2 inches, so increase or decrease rows as you prefer.
  • If adding or subtracting stitches from the initial cast-on to adjust the size of the hat, make sure you keep the total number a multiple of 2.
  • The hat as written is not very slouchy. If you’d like a more slouchy hat, continue the knit rounds beyond the written 20 rounds.

Pattern:

To begin, hold two strands of yarn and use the 9 mm needles to cast on 46 stitches using the long tail cast on method (or your preferred cast on method). Place a stitch marker to assist in counting rows.

R1-8: *K1, P1* around. (46 sts)

Switch to 10 mm needles.

R9-29: Knit around. (46 sts)

R30: *K1, K2tog*, repeat around. (31 sts).

R31: Knit around (31 sts)

If you have double pointed needles, switch to those now. If not, either continue last two rows with circular needles or thread end through loops now.

R32: Using DPNs, *K1, K2tog*, evenly distributing stitches on 2 or 3 needles. (22 sts)

R33: Knit around. (22 sts)

Using a long tail, thread through each loop on the needles, remove needles and pull tight. Attach pom of your choice and weave in ends.

Finished dimensions:

8.5″/21.6 cm wide (at body when flat), 8.5″/21.6 cm in height

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt

The holiday season can be hectic (and expensive), so I’m bringing you a quick and easy project that you can whip up in one night when you’re taking a break from online shopping and holiday parties. If you have a small tabletop tree that’s looking a little under-dressed then this is the pattern for you!

This tree skirt is named after the baubles that adorn the tree, and the bobbles that amp up the texture of this simple and festive Christmas decor item. This skirt will fit a tree between 2 and 4 feet tall (mine was 3!).

I wanted a quick and squishy skirt so I reached for super bulky level 6 yarn. Pictured here is Bernat Softee Chunky in the colors Grey Ragg and Wine in the photos below. Any other super bulky yarn would work great, like Lion Brand Wool Ease or Hometown USA. You’ll also need a nice big size P crochet hook.

Starting this pattern is very similar to making any circular crochet project, except you’re not joining in the round so you can slip the skirt around the base of the tree.

The bobbles are added every 4 rows and most rows are just single crochets with increases every so often, so this pattern is very beginner friendly!

After a few rounds you can see how the circle is coming together. If you only have 1 ball of yarn you can get through row 15, which will make a smaller skirt best for a 2 foot tree. You’ll need 1.5 balls of yarn, or about 160 yards, to make the full 19 inch skirt.

Now that I’ve talked you through it a bit, let’s get to the pattern! Be sure to read the notes so you can easily follow the annotations in the pattern and breeze through this project.

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Stitch (ST)

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

Materials:

-2 balls of Super Bulky (level 6) yarn, about 160 yards

-Size P-15 (10 mm) crochet hook

Final measurements:

19 in./48 cm. in diameter

Special Stitch:

Bobble: Yarn over (YO), insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.

Notes:

  • When an instruction indicates a number after a stitch (ex. SC 2), it means to make a single crochet in the next two stitches. When a, instruction has a number before the stitch (ex. 2SC), it means to make two single crochets into one stitch space.
  • The annotation “1SC+Bobble” means you make one single crochet and one bobble stitch in the same space (making an increase).

Pattern:

Chain 7.

Row 1: Starting from the 2nd CH from the hook, SC across. (6 STS)

Row 2: CH 1, turn. 2SC in each ST across. (12 STS)

R3: CH 1, turn. *SC, 2SC*, repeat across. (18 STS)

R4: CH 1, turn. SC 1. In the next stitch, 1SC+Bobble. *SC 2, 1SC+Bobble*.  Repeat across, ending with SC. (24 STS, 6 Bobbles)

R5: CH 1, turn. *SC 3, 2SC*. Repeat across. (30 STS)

R6: CH 1, turn. SC 2, *2SC, SC 4*, repeat across. End with SC 2. (36 STS)

R7: CH 1, turn. *SC 5, 2SC*, repeat across. (42 STS)

R8: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*. Repeat across to last 3 STS, SC 1, Bobble, SC 1. (48 STS, 12 Bobbles)

R9: CH 1, turn. *SC 7, 2SC*, repeat across. (54 STS)

R10: CH 1, turn. SC 4, *2SC, SC 8*, repeat across. End with SC 4. (60 STS)

R11: CH 1, turn. *SC 9, 2SC*, repeat across. (66 STS)

R12: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 2, *1SC+ Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 2*. Repeat to last 5 stitches. SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (72 STS, 18 Bobbles)

R13: CH 1, turn. *SC 11, 2SC*, repeat across. (78 STS)

R14: CH 1, turn. SC 6, *2SC, SC 12*, repeat across. End with SC 6. (84 STS)

R15: CH 1, turn. *SC 13, 2SC*, repeat across. (90 STS)

R16: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*, repeat to last 7 stitches, SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (96 STS, 24 Bobbles)

R17: CH 1, turn. *SC 15, 2SC*, repeat across. (102 STS)

R18: CH 1, turn. SC 8, *2SC, SC 16*, repeat across. End with SC 8. (108 STS)

R19: CH 1, turn. *SC 17, 2SC*, repeat across. (114 STS)

If you make your own mini bauble tree skirt please tag me on Instagram because I love seeing your recreations and I bet there could be some amazing tree skirts made with different yarns!

Thanks for reading and have a lovely holiday season!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The Braeburn Beanie

There are few things that make me more excited about life than when the leaves start turning, apples are filling branches and pumpkins are popping up in the fields- I’m talking about fall! I have been so inspired this season, and one thing I knew I needed to create was a soft, slouchie, and lightweight beanie for the chilly fall days and nights. I named this hat the Braeburn Beanie in honor of the apples that fill the orchards this time of year.

I used two of my current favorites for this easy beginner beanie- Lion Brand Jeans yarn and the Half Double Crochet V-stitch. This is a simple stitch that will make a really great texture on your beanie. Any worsted weight yarn will work but Jeans is soft and silky and makes the perfect hat. If you can get your hands on the Colors line, I used Cordoroy, the pretty plum color that I can’t get enough of.

Let’s get to the pattern!

The Braeburn Beanie Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Slip Stitch (SL ST)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Half Double Crochet (HDC)

– Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (HDCV)

-Half Double Crochet 2 Together (HDC2TOG)

Special Stitches:

Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (HDCV): 1HDC, CH 1, 1HDC in the same stitch

Half Double Crochet 2 Together (HDC2TOG): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all four loops.

Note:

A technique used in this beanie is the invisible slip stitch and chainless half double crochet. If you’re unfamiliar with those techniques check out my simple summer market bag pattern for a detailed explanation with lots of pictures (just changing the chainless double crochet with a chainless half double for this beanie).

Materials:

-Worsted weight (level 4) yarn, about 150 yards- I used half a skein of Lion Brand Jeans Colors in Corduroy

-Size J/10 6 mm Crochet Hook

-Stitch Markers (optional)

-Sewing Needle

-Fur Pom or Yarn Pom (Optional)

Pattern:

Beanie Band:

CH 11.

R1: HDC in 2nd CH from the hook. HDC to end. (10 HDC)

R2: CH 1, turn. HDC in the back loop of each HDC across (10 HDC).

Repeat R2 until band measures 18 in. long (adjust as needed, should wrap around head fully), about 40 rows.

SL ST band edges together.

Beanie Body:

R1: SC around the hat band, making sure to end in an even number (60 SC with a 40 row band). Invisible slip stitch (or regular slip stitch) to first SC.

R2: Make a chainless HDC. Place a stitch marker in the top of the HDC (optional).  *Skip 1 SC, HDCV in the next SC*. Repeat from * to * around, ending with a HDCV in the last SC. SL ST to the chainless HDC.

R3: Make a chainless HDC. Place a stitch marker in the top of the HDC (optional).  HDCV in the chain space of each HDCV stitch. SL ST to the chainless HDC.

Repeat R3 for 15 rows of HDCV stitch total.

R17: Chainless HDC. *1 HDCV in first HDCV, 1 HDC in next HDCV*, repeat * to * around. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R18: 1 HDC in each HDCV CH space and each single HDC around. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R19: HDC2TOG around each HDC. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R20: HDC2TOG around each HDC2TOG. SL ST to chainless HDC.

Pull up a long tail after final SL ST and whip stitch around the final HDC2TOG’s, pulling tight. Use tail to attach a fur or yarn pom, tie off.

That’s it! I hope you make your own Braeburn Beanie and take it apple picking on a chilly (but sunny!) fall day!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Simple Summer Market Bag

Hello summer-loving peeps! It’s time for beach days, day trips and farmer’s markets, and this handy bag has you covered! It’s the perfect size to throw your lunch and a book into or some local fruits and veggies, and it’s really cute to boot. Plus if you use recycled yarn like I did you can feel even better about making your own reusable bags! Scroll down for the easy crochet pattern, which includes picture tutorials on how to not have an obvious seam running up your bag.

Simple Summer Market Bag Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Double Crochet (DC)

Materials:

  • 2 balls worsted weight cotton yarn, solid color- Pictured is Lion Brand Re-Up yarn in Grey
  • 1 ball light (level 3) weight cotton yarn, multi-colored- Pictured is Lion Brand Comfy Cotton yarn in Mai Tai
  • Size I/9 5.5 mm crochet hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape or ruler

Special Notes:

  • Each row made in the round (R22 and on) is joined with an invisible slip stitch. I added pictures to show how to do this, but joining with a regular slip stitch is also acceptable (but the join will be visible).
  • After the invisible join, I’ve used the chainless SC and the chainless DC. I’ve included pictures that show how to do this, but regular SC and DC are also acceptable.

Pattern:

Base

Using solid color cotton yarn (yarn A), CH 41.

Row 1: SC into 2nd CH from the hook. SC across (40 SC).

R2: CH 1, turn. SC across (40 SC).

R3-18: Repeat R2 for 18 rows total.

R19: At the end of row 18, CH 1 and rotate rectangle so you’re now working on the left side edge. SC in 1st row space. Skip next space and make 2 SC’s into the next space. Repeat skip and 2 SC’s until you reach the bottom, where your starting CH was begun. (16 SC)

R20: CH 1, rotate rectangle so you’re working along the starting CH. SC in each CH loop (40 SC)

R21: CH 1, repeat R19 along the right edge of the rectangle. When you reach the end, CH 1 and invisible slip stitch into the first SC from R18.

Invisible Slip Stitch:

Remove hook from working loop and insert it into the top of the SC, back to front.
Hook loop and pull through the stitch, front to back.
Invisible slip stitch is complete.

Chainless Single Crochet:

Pull up the loop a little higher than a SC.
Insert hook into same stitch you made your invisible slip stitch.
Yarn over and pull up a loop, like a normal SC. Finish SC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

R22: Chainless SC into 1st SC. Place a stitch marker into this SC. SC around the rectangle, making 1 SC in the corner CH’s. Join to 1st chainless SC.

R23-24: Repeat R22 twice, 3 rows total. Do not join at the end of R24.

Body

R25: Finish last SC with Yarn B (Comfy Cotton yarn). Join to the chainless SC from R24. Chainless DC into the SC (see photos).

Chainless Double Crochet:

Join Yarn B in last SC of previous row.
Invisible slip stitch.
Pull up loop a little higher than a normal DC.
Keeping one finger firmly holding the first loop in place on your hook, wrap the hook around the yarn so you have two “loops” on your hook.
Insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, being careful to keep the other two loops in place on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through first two loops, like a normal DC.
Yarn over again and pull through last two loops, completing the chainless DC. Place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

Place a stitch marker into the top of the chainless DC. *CH 1, skip 1, DC into next SC*. Repeat from * to * around the base, ending with a CH 1 before joining into 1st DC.

R26: Make a chainless DC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops (do this for all rows). *CH 1, DC into the top of next DC*. Repeat from * to * around the base. (59 DC) Join to 1st chainless DC.

R27-R44: Repeat R25 for 20 DC rows total. Do not join at the end of R44.

R45: Join Yarn A and slip stitch into 1st chainless DC from R44. Chainless SC and SC around in each DC and CH space. Join.

Strap

Lay bag body flat and use a ruler or measuring tape to find the mid-point. Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch of the front and back of the bag. Count 10 SC’s on each side of the midpoint and place a stitch marker in each spot. Remove the midpoint stitch markers. You’ll have 4 stitch markers in place, two on each side, with 20 SC’s in between.

R46: Chainless SC, then SC until you reach the first stitch marker. CH 50. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around to next stitch marker on the back of the bag. CH 50 again. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around until you reach the chainless SC. Join.

R47-R50: SC around all SC’s and the CH 50’s, joining each round, for 4 rows total. Tie off after joining the last row and weave in ends.

Final measurements:

Base: 12 x 5.5 in.

Body: 15 x 15 in.

Strap: 55 in.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Crochet Plant Hanger

I live in a small apartment and my love for plants has meant that 90% of the available surfaces are covered in lovely green things. Unfortunately I need that other 10% to sleep and eat on, so I designed this cute little plant hanger so I can make use of my walls and keep this plant addiction going.

I’ve included step by step pictures along with the instructions to help you make your own little plant hanger. If you make one please be sure to tag me on Instragram (februaryskydesigns), as I’d love to see your finished products holding your plant babies!

Materials:

  • Bernat Home Dec Yarn
  • size N/10 crochet hook
  • large eye sewing needle
  • stitch markers
  • 2.5 inch wooden ring (one per planter)
  • 1.5 inch wooden ring (optional)
  • large wooden beads (optional)

Stitch abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Skip One Stitch (SK1)
  • Slip Stitch (SL ST)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Half Double Crochet (HDC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Final measurements:

Width (before hanging): 8”

Height (before hanging): 10”

Note: For this pattern, hold two strands of Bernat Home Dec yarn together and use them as one strand as you crochet. This yarn is a Bulky weight (5) yarn. Any yarn may be used for this pattern, but the size and structure might be affected.

Pattern:

Round 1: CH 20. Work 3 SC onto 2.5” wooden ring.

Continue round with 20 more CH’s. SL ST onto first CH to create a circle as you’ll be working in the round for this pattern.

Round 2: CH 2 (counts as a HDC). Place a stitch marker in the CH 2 space.

*SK1 CH, HDC into next CH, CH 1*. Repeat from * to * until you reach the 3 SC’s on the ring. Work 1 HDC into each SC.

After the 3 HDC’s, continue to CH 1, SK 1, and HDC around until you reach the end of round 1 (the beginning CH 2).

Round 3: Work HDC into the space made by the CH 2. CH 1 and continue to work HDC + CH 1 into the CH spaces from the previous round until you reach the 3 HDC’s at the ring.

Without making a CH, 2DCT in the second 2 HDC’s you made on the ring. Place a stitch marker in the 2DCT if you need help finding it for the next round.

2DCT made in 2nd 2 HDC’s.

Do not CH and make a HDC in next CH space.

HDC made in CH space next to completed 2DCT.

CH1, then continue HDC + CH around in the CH spaces.

Round 4: Continue HDC + CH1 in the CH spaces of the previous round. When you reach the 2DCT from the previous row, make a 2DCT in the top of that stitch and the next HDC.

2DCT with a stitch marker used to show the HDC where you make the second part of the 2DCT stitch.
FInished 2DCT shown, with a stitch marker to show the CH space where you make your next HDC.
HDC completed, with stitch marker used to mark the 2DCT, which is where you start your 2DCT of each round.

Rounds 5 and 6: Repeat round 4, making your 2DCT in the 2DCT from the previous row and the HDC next to it.

Stitch marker in the 2DCT.

Round 7: Continue HDC + CH1 in the CH spaces until you reach the 2DCT from Round 6.

Complete 2DCT as normal. Place a stitch marker in the CH space before the 2DCT. This is where you will complete a final SL ST.

Finished 2DCT with a stitch marker in the CH space before the stitch.

Instead of making your next HDC after the 2DCT, continue to make 2DCT stitches in the CH spaces around the circle.

Shown is 2nd 2DCT stitch made in the next 2 CH spaces after the 1st 2DCT.

Continue making 2DCT in the CH spaces until you reach the last CH space, where you placed a stitch marker. SL ST into this space.

Last CH space, where you slip stitch.
Completed round of 2DCT.

Bring a long tail through the SL ST and whip stitch around the 2DCT’s.

Pull the tail tight to close the circle. Tie off the tail, but don’t cut it off if you plan on adding a tassel.

The hard part’s over! Now you’ll want to weave in your starting tail, making sure to pull it across to make an even front edge.

Once the tail is weaved in, it’s time to make the tassel! Using one strand of your yarn, make 11 loops about 10 inches long.

Cut the loops at the ends of the strands. Grab your smaller wooden ring, a wooden bead and your sewing needle. Taking another strand of yarn, bring one end through the bead, up through the ring, and back through the bead again. Tie the ring and bead to the tassel strands in the middle.

Using another strand of yarn, tie a knot about an inch under the top of the bunch. Weave the ends of this strand back into the middle of the bunch to hide the knot a little more. Then trim the bottom of the tassel to make a neat bottom.

Using the tail you left from the end of the planter base, take another bead and bring the yarn through it once, through the wooden ring, and then back up through the bead again.

Pull tight and weave in the end inside the plant hanger. You did it! You’re finished!

Use a 3×4 inch or 4×4 inch round plant pot without holes as the base of the planter. Add a plastic insert with holes and a small plant, the drapier the better!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!