The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt

The holiday season can be hectic (and expensive), so I’m bringing you a quick and easy project that you can whip up in one night when you’re taking a break from online shopping and holiday parties. If you have a small tabletop tree that’s looking a little under-dressed then this is the pattern for you!

This tree skirt is named after the baubles that adorn the tree, and the bobbles that amp up the texture of this simple and festive Christmas decor item. This skirt will fit a tree between 2 and 4 feet tall (mine was 3!).

I wanted a quick and squishy skirt so I reached for super bulky level 6 yarn. Pictured here is Bernat Softee Chunky in the colors Grey Ragg and Wine in the photos below. Any other super bulky yarn would work great, like Lion Brand Wool Ease or Hometown USA. You’ll also need a nice big size P crochet hook.

Starting this pattern is very similar to making any circular crochet project, except you’re not joining in the round so you can slip the skirt around the base of the tree.

The bobbles are added every 4 rows and most rows are just single crochets with increases every so often, so this pattern is very beginner friendly!

After a few rounds you can see how the circle is coming together. If you only have 1 ball of yarn you can get through row 15, which will make a smaller skirt best for a 2 foot tree. You’ll need 1.5 balls of yarn, or about 160 yards, to make the full 19 inch skirt.

Now that I’ve talked you through it a bit, let’s get to the pattern! Be sure to read the notes so you can easily follow the annotations in the pattern and breeze through this project.

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Stitch (ST)

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

Materials:

-2 balls of Super Bulky (level 6) yarn, about 160 yards

-Size P-15 (10 mm) crochet hook

Final measurements:

19 in./48 cm. in diameter

Special Stitch:

Bobble: Yarn over (YO), insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.

Notes:

  • When an instruction indicates a number after a stitch (ex. SC 2), it means to make a single crochet in the next two stitches. When a, instruction has a number before the stitch (ex. 2SC), it means to make two single crochets into one stitch space.
  • The annotation “1SC+Bobble” means you make one single crochet and one bobble stitch in the same space (making an increase).

Pattern:

Chain 7.

Row 1: Starting from the 2nd CH from the hook, SC across. (6 STS)

Row 2: CH 1, turn. 2SC in each ST across. (12 STS)

R3: CH 1, turn. *SC, 2SC*, repeat across. (18 STS)

R4: CH 1, turn. SC 1. In the next stitch, 1SC+Bobble. *SC 2, 1SC+Bobble*.  Repeat across, ending with SC. (24 STS, 6 Bobbles)

R5: CH 1, turn. *SC 3, 2SC*. Repeat across. (30 STS)

R6: CH 1, turn. SC 2, *2SC, SC 4*, repeat across. End with SC 2. (36 STS)

R7: CH 1, turn. *SC 5, 2SC*, repeat across. (42 STS)

R8: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*. Repeat across to last 3 STS, SC 1, Bobble, SC 1. (48 STS, 12 Bobbles)

R9: CH 1, turn. *SC 7, 2SC*, repeat across. (54 STS)

R10: CH 1, turn. SC 4, *2SC, SC 8*, repeat across. End with SC 4. (60 STS)

R11: CH 1, turn. *SC 9, 2SC*, repeat across. (66 STS)

R12: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 2, *1SC+ Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 2*. Repeat to last 5 stitches. SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (72 STS, 18 Bobbles)

R13: CH 1, turn. *SC 11, 2SC*, repeat across. (78 STS)

R14: CH 1, turn. SC 6, *2SC, SC 12*, repeat across. End with SC 6. (84 STS)

R15: CH 1, turn. *SC 13, 2SC*, repeat across. (90 STS)

R16: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*, repeat to last 7 stitches, SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (96 STS, 24 Bobbles)

R17: CH 1, turn. *SC 15, 2SC*, repeat across. (102 STS)

R18: CH 1, turn. SC 8, *2SC, SC 16*, repeat across. End with SC 8. (108 STS)

R19: CH 1, turn. *SC 17, 2SC*, repeat across. (114 STS)

If you make your own mini bauble tree skirt please tag me on Instagram because I love seeing your recreations and I bet there could be some amazing tree skirts made with different yarns!

Thanks for reading and have a lovely holiday season!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The Braeburn Beanie

There are few things that make me more excited about life than when the leaves start turning, apples are filling branches and pumpkins are popping up in the fields- I’m talking about fall! I have been so inspired this season, and one thing I knew I needed to create was a soft, slouchie, and lightweight beanie for the chilly fall days and nights. I named this hat the Braeburn Beanie in honor of the apples that fill the orchards this time of year.

I used two of my current favorites for this easy beginner beanie- Lion Brand Jeans yarn and the Half Double Crochet V-stitch. This is a simple stitch that will make a really great texture on your beanie. Any worsted weight yarn will work but Jeans is soft and silky and makes the perfect hat. If you can get your hands on the Colors line, I used Cordoroy, the pretty plum color that I can’t get enough of.

Let’s get to the pattern!

The Braeburn Beanie Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Slip Stitch (SL ST)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Half Double Crochet (HDC)

– Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (HDCV)

-Half Double Crochet 2 Together (HDC2TOG)

Special Stitches:

Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (HDCV): 1HDC, CH 1, 1HDC in the same stitch

Half Double Crochet 2 Together (HDC2TOG): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all four loops.

Note:

A technique used in this beanie is the invisible slip stitch and chainless half double crochet. If you’re unfamiliar with those techniques check out my simple summer market bag pattern for a detailed explanation with lots of pictures (just changing the chainless double crochet with a chainless half double for this beanie).

Materials:

-Worsted weight (level 4) yarn, about 150 yards- I used half a skein of Lion Brand Jeans Colors in Corduroy

-Size J/10 6 mm Crochet Hook

-Stitch Markers (optional)

-Sewing Needle

-Fur Pom or Yarn Pom (Optional)

Pattern:

Beanie Band:

CH 11.

R1: HDC in 2nd CH from the hook. HDC to end. (10 HDC)

R2: CH 1, turn. HDC in the back loop of each HDC across (10 HDC).

Repeat R2 until band measures 18 in. long (adjust as needed, should wrap around head fully), about 40 rows.

SL ST band edges together.

Beanie Body:

R1: SC around the hat band, making sure to end in an even number (60 SC with a 40 row band). Invisible slip stitch (or regular slip stitch) to first SC.

R2: Make a chainless HDC. Place a stitch marker in the top of the HDC (optional).  *Skip 1 SC, HDCV in the next SC*. Repeat from * to * around, ending with a HDCV in the last SC. SL ST to the chainless HDC.

R3: Make a chainless HDC. Place a stitch marker in the top of the HDC (optional).  HDCV in the chain space of each HDCV stitch. SL ST to the chainless HDC.

Repeat R3 for 15 rows of HDCV stitch total.

R17: Chainless HDC. *1 HDCV in first HDCV, 1 HDC in next HDCV*, repeat * to * around. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R18: 1 HDC in each HDCV CH space and each single HDC around. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R19: HDC2TOG around each HDC. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R20: HDC2TOG around each HDC2TOG. SL ST to chainless HDC.

Pull up a long tail after final SL ST and whip stitch around the final HDC2TOG’s, pulling tight. Use tail to attach a fur or yarn pom, tie off.

That’s it! I hope you make your own Braeburn Beanie and take it apple picking on a chilly (but sunny!) fall day!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Simple Summer Market Bag

Hello summer-loving peeps! It’s time for beach days, day trips and farmer’s markets, and this handy bag has you covered! It’s the perfect size to throw your lunch and a book into or some local fruits and veggies, and it’s really cute to boot. Plus if you use recycled yarn like I did you can feel even better about making your own reusable bags! Scroll down for the easy crochet pattern, which includes picture tutorials on how to not have an obvious seam running up your bag.

Simple Summer Market Bag Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Double Crochet (DC)

Materials:

  • 2 balls worsted weight cotton yarn, solid color- Pictured is Lion Brand Re-Up yarn in Grey
  • 1 ball light (level 3) weight cotton yarn, multi-colored- Pictured is Lion Brand Comfy Cotton yarn in Mai Tai
  • Size I/9 5.5 mm crochet hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape or ruler

Special Notes:

  • Each row made in the round (R22 and on) is joined with an invisible slip stitch. I added pictures to show how to do this, but joining with a regular slip stitch is also acceptable (but the join will be visible).
  • After the invisible join, I’ve used the chainless SC and the chainless DC. I’ve included pictures that show how to do this, but regular SC and DC are also acceptable.

Pattern:

Base

Using solid color cotton yarn (yarn A), CH 41.

Row 1: SC into 2nd CH from the hook. SC across (40 SC).

R2: CH 1, turn. SC across (40 SC).

R3-18: Repeat R2 for 18 rows total.

R19: At the end of row 18, CH 1 and rotate rectangle so you’re now working on the left side edge. SC in 1st row space. Skip next space and make 2 SC’s into the next space. Repeat skip and 2 SC’s until you reach the bottom, where your starting CH was begun. (16 SC)

R20: CH 1, rotate rectangle so you’re working along the starting CH. SC in each CH loop (40 SC)

R21: CH 1, repeat R19 along the right edge of the rectangle. When you reach the end, CH 1 and invisible slip stitch into the first SC from R18.

Invisible Slip Stitch:

Remove hook from working loop and insert it into the top of the SC, back to front.
Hook loop and pull through the stitch, front to back.
Invisible slip stitch is complete.

Chainless Single Crochet:

Pull up the loop a little higher than a SC.
Insert hook into same stitch you made your invisible slip stitch.
Yarn over and pull up a loop, like a normal SC. Finish SC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

R22: Chainless SC into 1st SC. Place a stitch marker into this SC. SC around the rectangle, making 1 SC in the corner CH’s. Join to 1st chainless SC.

R23-24: Repeat R22 twice, 3 rows total. Do not join at the end of R24.

Body

R25: Finish last SC with Yarn B (Comfy Cotton yarn). Join to the chainless SC from R24. Chainless DC into the SC (see photos).

Chainless Double Crochet:

Join Yarn B in last SC of previous row.
Invisible slip stitch.
Pull up loop a little higher than a normal DC.
Keeping one finger firmly holding the first loop in place on your hook, wrap the hook around the yarn so you have two “loops” on your hook.
Insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, being careful to keep the other two loops in place on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through first two loops, like a normal DC.
Yarn over again and pull through last two loops, completing the chainless DC. Place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

Place a stitch marker into the top of the chainless DC. *CH 1, skip 1, DC into next SC*. Repeat from * to * around the base, ending with a CH 1 before joining into 1st DC.

R26: Make a chainless DC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops (do this for all rows). *CH 1, DC into the top of next DC*. Repeat from * to * around the base. (59 DC) Join to 1st chainless DC.

R27-R44: Repeat R25 for 20 DC rows total. Do not join at the end of R44.

R45: Join Yarn A and slip stitch into 1st chainless DC from R44. Chainless SC and SC around in each DC and CH space. Join.

Strap

Lay bag body flat and use a ruler or measuring tape to find the mid-point. Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch of the front and back of the bag. Count 10 SC’s on each side of the midpoint and place a stitch marker in each spot. Remove the midpoint stitch markers. You’ll have 4 stitch markers in place, two on each side, with 20 SC’s in between.

R46: Chainless SC, then SC until you reach the first stitch marker. CH 50. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around to next stitch marker on the back of the bag. CH 50 again. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around until you reach the chainless SC. Join.

R47-R50: SC around all SC’s and the CH 50’s, joining each round, for 4 rows total. Tie off after joining the last row and weave in ends.

Final measurements:

Base: 12 x 5.5 in.

Body: 15 x 15 in.

Strap: 55 in.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Crochet Plant Hanger

I live in a small apartment and my love for plants has meant that 90% of the available surfaces are covered in lovely green things. Unfortunately I need that other 10% to sleep and eat on, so I designed this cute little plant hanger so I can make use of my walls and keep this plant addiction going.

I’ve included step by step pictures along with the instructions to help you make your own little plant hanger. If you make one please be sure to tag me on Instragram (februaryskydesigns), as I’d love to see your finished products holding your plant babies!

Materials:

  • Bernat Home Dec Yarn
  • size N/10 crochet hook
  • large eye sewing needle
  • stitch markers
  • 2.5 inch wooden ring (one per planter)
  • 1.5 inch wooden ring (optional)
  • large wooden beads (optional)

Stitch abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Skip One Stitch (SK1)
  • Slip Stitch (SL ST)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Half Double Crochet (HDC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Final measurements:

Width (before hanging): 8”

Height (before hanging): 10”

Note: For this pattern, hold two strands of Bernat Home Dec yarn together and use them as one strand as you crochet. This yarn is a Bulky weight (5) yarn. Any yarn may be used for this pattern, but the size and structure might be affected.

Pattern:

Round 1: CH 20. Work 3 SC onto 2.5” wooden ring.

Continue round with 20 more CH’s. SL ST onto first CH to create a circle as you’ll be working in the round for this pattern.

Round 2: CH 2 (counts as a HDC). Place a stitch marker in the CH 2 space.

*SK1 CH, HDC into next CH, CH 1*. Repeat from * to * until you reach the 3 SC’s on the ring. Work 1 HDC into each SC.

After the 3 HDC’s, continue to CH 1, SK 1, and HDC around until you reach the end of round 1 (the beginning CH 2).

Round 3: Work HDC into the space made by the CH 2. CH 1 and continue to work HDC + CH 1 into the CH spaces from the previous round until you reach the 3 HDC’s at the ring.

Without making a CH, 2DCT in the second 2 HDC’s you made on the ring. Place a stitch marker in the 2DCT if you need help finding it for the next round.

2DCT made in 2nd 2 HDC’s.

Do not CH and make a HDC in next CH space.

HDC made in CH space next to completed 2DCT.

CH1, then continue HDC + CH around in the CH spaces.

Round 4: Continue HDC + CH1 in the CH spaces of the previous round. When you reach the 2DCT from the previous row, make a 2DCT in the top of that stitch and the next HDC.

2DCT with a stitch marker used to show the HDC where you make the second part of the 2DCT stitch.
FInished 2DCT shown, with a stitch marker to show the CH space where you make your next HDC.
HDC completed, with stitch marker used to mark the 2DCT, which is where you start your 2DCT of each round.

Rounds 5 and 6: Repeat round 4, making your 2DCT in the 2DCT from the previous row and the HDC next to it.

Stitch marker in the 2DCT.

Round 7: Continue HDC + CH1 in the CH spaces until you reach the 2DCT from Round 6.

Complete 2DCT as normal. Place a stitch marker in the CH space before the 2DCT. This is where you will complete a final SL ST.

Finished 2DCT with a stitch marker in the CH space before the stitch.

Instead of making your next HDC after the 2DCT, continue to make 2DCT stitches in the CH spaces around the circle.

Shown is 2nd 2DCT stitch made in the next 2 CH spaces after the 1st 2DCT.

Continue making 2DCT in the CH spaces until you reach the last CH space, where you placed a stitch marker. SL ST into this space.

Last CH space, where you slip stitch.
Completed round of 2DCT.

Bring a long tail through the SL ST and whip stitch around the 2DCT’s.

Pull the tail tight to close the circle. Tie off the tail, but don’t cut it off if you plan on adding a tassel.

The hard part’s over! Now you’ll want to weave in your starting tail, making sure to pull it across to make an even front edge.

Once the tail is weaved in, it’s time to make the tassel! Using one strand of your yarn, make 11 loops about 10 inches long.

Cut the loops at the ends of the strands. Grab your smaller wooden ring, a wooden bead and your sewing needle. Taking another strand of yarn, bring one end through the bead, up through the ring, and back through the bead again. Tie the ring and bead to the tassel strands in the middle.

Using another strand of yarn, tie a knot about an inch under the top of the bunch. Weave the ends of this strand back into the middle of the bunch to hide the knot a little more. Then trim the bottom of the tassel to make a neat bottom.

Using the tail you left from the end of the planter base, take another bead and bring the yarn through it once, through the wooden ring, and then back up through the bead again.

Pull tight and weave in the end inside the plant hanger. You did it! You’re finished!

Use a 3×4 inch or 4×4 inch round plant pot without holes as the base of the planter. Add a plastic insert with holes and a small plant, the drapier the better!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Peaceful Warrior Yoga Bag

I’ve been practicing yoga on and off for the past 10 years. I don’t consider myself a “yogi”, but last year I started an at-home practice using free online yoga videos, and it was honestly one of the best things I did for myself during the hardest year of my life.

Home practice is great, but there’s nothing like a studio class to feel the connection that yoga can create. I crocheted my own mat bag a couple years ago when I started taking classes at a new studio, and I’m really excited to share the pattern with you so you can make your own!

The ritual of yoga is learning balance. I named my bag pattern after the pose “Peaceful Warrior” because that is how I want to live- in a state of calm surrender, strong enough to fight when it’s needed. Yoga can be a lot of things to different people, but at it’s core it is an act of self love. Who doesn’t need more of that in their lives?

This bag is the perfect companion for your studio practice. It’s roomy so you don’t have to struggle to get your mat inside, and it’ll fit your water bottle and wallet with a front pocket for your phone and keys! The colors are endlessly customizable, so have fun making it your own!

Peaceful Warrior Yoga Bag Crochet Pattern

Materials:

  • 8 balls (120 yards each) of 100% cotton worsted weight yarn: 2 balls each of Colors A, B and C; optional small amounts (approx. 13 yards each) of 7 Chakra stripe colors, or 2 more balls of Color D of your choice.
  • I/9 Crochet Hook
  • J/10 Crochet Hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Measuring tape/ruler
  • 1-inch button
  • Large Eye sewing needle

Stitch abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Double Crochet (DC)
  • Slip Stitch (SL ST)
I recommend using recycled cotton yarn. This Re-Up yarn is what I used for the gray section of my bag and it’s really soft and easy to work with.

Pattern:

Note: The bag pictured was made holding two strands of worsted weight cotton yarn together. The measurements are based on this method and the hook sizes mentioned.

Step 1: Holding 2 stands of Color A yarn together and using the size J/10 hook, create a Magic Circle, or CH 4 and SL ST the last CH to the first CH.

Step 2: CH 2, 8 SC into the Magic Circle or the CH 4 circle. SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 3: CH 2, 2 SC in each stitch around (16 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 4: CH 2, *1 SC in first stitch, 2 SC in next stitch*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (24 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 5: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 2 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (32 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 6: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 3 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (40 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 7: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 4 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (48 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 8: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 5 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (48 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 9: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 6 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (56 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 10: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 7 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (64 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 11: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 8 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (72 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Part 2:

Row 1: CH 3 (counts as a stitch). DC around all SC from previous row, no increases. SL ST to 3rd CH in CH 3.

Rows 2-6: Repeat Row 1 five more times (6 rows of DC of Color A).

Rows 7-15: Change to Color B, repeat Row 1 for 9 rows.

Rows 16-22: Optional Chakra Stripes: 7 more rows, each of a different color corresponding to the 7 chakras: red, orange, yellow, green, light blue, dark blue, purple. Or change to Color D for 7 rows.

Row 23: Last DC row in Color C.

Strap:

Step 1: Holding 2 stands of Color C together and using J hook, CH 8. SL ST to 1st CH, forming a circle.

Step 2: CH 3. DC in each CH around (7 DC). Without joining, continue to DC in a continuous loop, forming a tube.

Step 3: Continue DC until tube reaches 60 inches. To finish, SC in next ST, then SL ST to last stitch.

Step 4: Pull long tail through and sew both ends together.

Step 5: To attach the strap to the bag body, lay the bag flat with the seam in the back. Place stitch markers in the center of the front and back of the bag. Fold strap in half and attach each end to the sides of the bag with stitch markers.

Step 6: Sew the handle to the bag using Color D, leaving a gap of 4 DC’s on either side of the mid-point of the front and back of the bag.

Pocket:

Shown are two pocket options:

Option 1 on the left and Option 2 on the right.

Step 1: Using 1 stand of yarn color C and size I/9 hook, CH 17. SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC across (16 SC).

Step 2: CH 1, SC in back loop only across (16 SC).

Step 3: CH 1, turn, SC in the front loop of the previous row you just worked the SC in the back loops.

Shown is the row made in the front loop of the previous row, with the back loop only row in front.

Step 4: SC across. When you reach the end CH1 and SC in the next SC on the other side, completing the loop.

Step 5: SC around the loop, working 1 SC in each of the CH spaces (34 SC).

Step 6, Option 1: Repeat continuous rows of SC for 22 rows total. Skip to step 7.

Step 6, Option 2: Complete one more row of SC. Start to DC, continuing for 7 rows. SC last row.

Step 7: Decrease first 2 stitches, SC across to last 2 stitches, decrease. CH 1, turn. Repeat decrease of first 2 stitches, SC across, and decrease last 2 stitches until the final row of 2 decreases. Chain 7 and SL ST to second SC to create button loop. Weave in end.

Step 8: Sew on a button of your choice.

Pocket Option 1.
Pocket Option 2 (shown in final product photos).

Final measurements:

Width: 12 in./30 cm.

Height (with mat inside): 18 in./46 cm.

Namaste!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The February Sky Scarf

When I decided to start blogging about crochet projects I knew I wanted to create a pattern that I could name after my blog. A signature item, if you will. It’s kind of corny, but after many tests and trials and failures and finally success, I’m proud to call this pattern the February Sky Scarf.

I’ve always been a scarf person and I made this one exactly how I like my scarves- long enough to wrap twice around my neck without being tight, a loose fabric that drapes nicely, and an interesting stitch that looks more complicated than it is.

The pattern uses a two-row repeat and only uses one slightly advanced technique (double crocheting stitches together), but once you get the hang of it you’ll have the scarf done in no time.

I made the scarf using two different colors of Caron Simply Soft and the ombre yarn made a really cool gently striped effect.

Materials

  • 2 skeins of Caron Simply Soft- (the solid purple is ‘Purple’ and the striped is ‘Grape Purple Ombre’)
  • Size N hook
  • Large Eye Thread Needle

Stitches:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Double Crochet (DC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)
  • Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops (three loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook into third stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, then yarn over and pull through remaining four loops. Stitch finished.

PATTERN

Holding two strands of yarn together (if using Caron Simply Soft or similar worsted weight yarn), chain 18.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from hook. *Skip a stitch. Make 3 DC’s (not 3DCT, 3 separate DC’s) in the same stitch. Skip one. SC.* Repeat from * to * across, ending in a SC.

Row 2: Turn. CH 2 (does not count as a stitch). In the 1st 2 stitches, 2DCT. *CH 1. SC in the next stitch (middle DC from previous row). CH 1, do not skip a stitch, and 3DCT in the next 3 stitches.* Repeat from * to * twice more. CH 1, SC, CH 1, end with 2DCT in the last 2 stitches.

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in the first stitch (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). *Skip a stitch (the chain from the last row) and make 3 DC’s in the next stitch (the SC from the previous row). Skip a stitch (CH from last row), and SC (in the top of the 3DCT)*. Repeat from * to * across, ending with a SC in the last stitch.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until scarf reaches desired length. My finished scarf was 60 inches long before I sewed the ends together. You can leave it open or create an infinity scarf, which is 30 inches long and wraps around the neck twice. Adjust the sizing to however fits you best!

I hope you’ll try it and feel empowered when you wear it. For me, it symbolizes going after my goals, even when they’re half-formed and take a lot more work than I originally thought. And beyond any symbolism, I think it’s really pretty and I hope you do too.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Move Mountains Baby Blanket

I got a text from one of my good friends showing me the beautiful mountain mural she’d put up in the nursery for the baby boy she’s expecting in a couple months. She lives far from me and I knew I wanted to send her a baby care package that included a crochet blanket using the colors in the mural. After browsing through some baby blanket patterns on Pinterest I had an idea- what if I not only incorporated the colors of the mural into the blanket, but the design as well? And so, the Move Mountains baby blanket was born!

“Kid, you’ll move mountains!”- Dr. Seuss
This is the picture she sent me of the nursery! Mountain decal purchased from PearlWall’s Etsy shop.

I had never made a blanket like this before and knew I’d need a visual to keep track of when I should be adding my colors. I used the website Stitch Fiddle to design a template for my blanket, and after a lot of trial and error this was what I came up with:

The blanket is worked entirely in single crochet and is 60 stitches across by 70 rows tall. The finished blanket came out to 36 inches by 32 inches using super bulky yarn and a size P hook.

The trickiest part of the blanket is knowing how to do the color changes correctly. Once you count your stitches and know where you’re supposed to be starting a new color you begin your single crochet in the stitch before the first stitch of the new color, and instead of finishing the single crochet with the first color you pull in the new color to finish it. Then you single crochet with the new color in the next stitch, which is your first stitch of the new color.

Here I was finishing with the light gray yarn and before completing my SC I would pull up the navy blue yarn to finish it and then continue on with the blue yarn, leaving the light gray strand until I came back to it in the next row.

By increasing or decreasing one stitch of a color, depending on where you are in the pattern, your colors will move up and down diagonally and create the mountain slopes.

If you want to cut back on the number of ends you need to weave in, like I always try to do, you’ll be working with multiple balls of yarn at once, picking them up and dropping them as you move across the rows.

Stitch abbreviations:

  • SC = single crochet
  • CH = chain

Materials: 

3 skeins each of-

Lion Brand Hometown USA Yarn – San Diego Navy

.

Lion Brand Hometown USA Yarn Dallas Grey

.

Lion Brand Yarn Hometown USA Yarn Springfield Silver

.

Crochet Hook, Size P-15, 10mm

.

Large-Eye Sewing Needle

_________

Pattern:

Chain 61

Row 1: Using Color A (dark gray), SC in the 2nd stitch from the hook and continue across. 60 SC.

R2-10: CH 1 (does not count as SC), turn. SC across.

R11:  CH 1, turn. SC across until there are two stitches from the end. Join Color B (navy blue) in SC 59 and do one SC of Color B in SC 60.

R12:  CH 1, turn. SC with Color B in first stitch. Start the SC in the second stitch and pick up Color A yarn to finish. SC across with Color A.

R13:  CH 1, turn. SC with Color A across until the 4th stitch from the end (SC 57). Pick up Color B and SC to end.

R14:  CH 1, turn. SC with Color B for three stitches. Start 4th SC and join Color A. SC across with Color A for 18 stitches. Join a second skein of Color B for one SC. Don’t finish the SC of Color B, but add a second skein of Color A and SC across to the second to last stitch. Join the 3rd skein of Color B and SC the last stitch.

R15-23:  CH 1, turn. Continue to SC with Colors A and B, increasing Color B and decreasing Color A one SC on each side of the mountain peaks with each row.

R24:  CH 1, turn. SC across, dropping 2nd Color B skein and continuing with 1st skein until Color A change.

R25-31:  CH 1, turn. Continue decreasing Color A.

R32-36:  CH 1, turn. SC across with Color B.

R37:  CH 1, turn. SC across with Color B for 15 stitches. Join with Color C (light gray) for one SC, join 2nd ball of Color B, SC across to SC 49, join 2nd skein of Color C, SC one and join 3rd skein of Color B. SC with Color B until second to last stitch, join 3rd skein of Color C, SC one.

R38-53:  CH 1, turn. SC across, decreasing Color B by one on each side of the mountain peaks until they all reach their tops.

R54-70:  CH 1, turn. SC across with Color C.

Note: Be sure to consult the stitch chart for help with color changes and row numbers!

I’ll be mailing the blanket this week, along with a onesie I found with little mountains on it (gotta love a theme!). I love how this blanket came out and I can’t wait to see pictures of it in the nursery and especially with her little boy!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

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