Crochet Plant Hanger

Exciting news!! Many of my non-crocheter friends have asked if I could make one of my plant hangers for them, and I’m happy to say I can finally offer my plant hangers as custom made-to-order items on my Etsy! Check out the different color options and choose the perfect new home for your plant babies!

Custom Handmade Plant Hangers

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I live in a small apartment and my love for plants has meant that 90% of the available surfaces are covered in lovely green things. Unfortunately I need that other 10% to sleep and eat on, so I designed this cute little plant hanger so I can make use of my walls and keep this plant addiction going.

I’ve included step by step pictures along with the instructions to help you make your own little plant hanger. If you make one please be sure to tag me on Instragram (februaryskydesigns)!

Materials:

  • Bernat Home Dec Yarn, or similar Bulky Level 5 yarn made of cotton/acrylic and nylon.
  • size N/10 crochet hook
  • large eye sewing needle
  • stitch markers
  • 2.5 inch wooden ring (one per hanger)
  • 1.5 inch wooden ring (one per hanger)
  • large wooden beads (optional)

Stitch abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Skip (SK)
  • Slip Stitch (SL ST)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Half Double Crochet (HDC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Final measurements:

Width (before hanging): 8”

Height (before hanging): 10”

Notes:

-Pattern calls for holding two strands of Bernat Home Dec yarn (or similar) together and using them as one strand as you crochet. This yarn is a Bulky weight (5) yarn. Any yarn may be used for this pattern, but the size and structure might be affected.

-There is no CH before or after each 2DCT, starting in Round 3.

Pattern:

Round 1: CH 20. Work 3 SC onto 2.5” wooden ring.

Continue round with 19 more CH’s. SL ST into first CH to create a circle as you’ll be working in the round for this pattern.

Round 2: CH 2 (counts as HDC). SK one CH, HDC into next CH. CH, SK, HDC until you reach the 3 SC’s on the ring. Work 1 HDC into each SC.

Continue to CH, SK, and HDC around until you reach the end of Round 1 (the first CH 2).

Round 3: HDC into the space after the CH 2. Continue to CH and HDC into the CH spaces from the previous round until you reach the 3 HDC’s at the ring.

Without making a CH, 2DCT in the second 2 HDC’s you made on the ring. Place a stitch marker in the 2DCT if you need help finding it for the next round.

2DCT made in 2nd 2 HDC’s.

Do not CH after 2DCT. HDC in next CH space. CH, then continue HDC + CH around in the CH spaces.

HDC made in CH space next to completed 2DCT.

Round 4: Continue HDC + CH in the CH spaces of the previous round. When you reach the 2DCT from the previous row, do not CH and make a 2DCT in the top of the 2DCT and in the HDC next to it. Do not CH and make a HDC in the very next CH space. Continue to CH and HDC in the CH spaces around.

2DCT from previous row and the HDC (with stitch marker) where you’ll make your 2DCT.
Finished 2DCT shown, with a stitch marker to show the CH space where you make your next HDC.
HDC completed, with stitch marker used to mark the 2DCT, which is where you start your 2DCT of each round.

Rounds 5 and 6: Repeat round 4, making your 2DCT in the 2DCT from the previous row and the HDC next to it.

Stitch marker in the 2DCT.

Round 7: Continue HDC + CH in the CH spaces until you reach the 2DCT from Round 6. Complete 2DCT as normal.

Finished 2DCT of Round 7.

Instead of making your next HDC after the 2DCT, continue to make 2DCT stitches in the CH spaces around the circle. Do not CH in between the 2DCT stitches.

Shown is 2nd 2DCT stitch made in the next 2 CH spaces after the 1st 2DCT.

Continue making 2DCT in the CH spaces. SL ST into the top of the 1st 2DCT to complete the round.

Completed round of 2DCT.

Bring a long tail through the SL ST and whip stitch around the 2DCT’s.

Pull the tail tight to close the circle. Tie off the tail, but don’t cut it off if you plan on adding a tassel.

The hard part’s over! Now you’ll want to weave in your starting tail, making sure to pull it across to make an even front edge.

It’s time to make the tassel! Using one strand of your yarn, make 11 loops about 10 inches long.

Cut the loops at the ends of the strands. Grab your smaller wooden ring, a wooden bead and your sewing needle. Taking another strand of yarn, bring one end through the bead, up through the ring, and back through the bead again. Tie the ring and bead to the tassel strands in the middle.

Using another strand of yarn, tie a knot about an inch under the top of the bunch. Weave the ends of this strand back into the middle of the bunch to hide the knot a little more. Then trim the bottom of the tassel to make a neat bottom.

Using the tail you left from the end of the planter base, take another bead and bring the yarn through it once, through the wooden ring, and then back up through the bead again.

Pull tight and weave in the end inside the plant hanger. You did it! You’re finished!

Use a 3×4 inch or 4×4 inch round plant pot without holes as the base of the planter. Add a plastic insert with holes and a small plant and sit back and enjoy!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Peaceful Warrior Yoga Bag

I’ve been practicing yoga on and off for the past 10 years. I don’t consider myself a “yogi”, but last year I started an at-home practice using free online yoga videos, and it was honestly one of the best things I did for myself during the hardest year of my life.

Home practice is great, but there’s nothing like a studio class to feel the connection that yoga can create. I crocheted my own mat bag a couple years ago when I started taking classes at a new studio, and I’m really excited to share the pattern with you so you can make your own!

The ritual of yoga is learning balance. I named my bag pattern after the pose “Peaceful Warrior” because that is how I want to live- in a state of calm surrender, strong enough to fight when it’s needed. Yoga can be a lot of things to different people, but at it’s core it is an act of self love. Who doesn’t need more of that in their lives?

This bag is the perfect companion for your studio practice. It’s roomy so you don’t have to struggle to get your mat inside, and it’ll fit your water bottle and wallet with a front pocket for your phone and keys! The colors are endlessly customizable, so have fun making it your own!

Peaceful Warrior Yoga Bag Crochet Pattern

Materials:

  • 8 balls (120 yards each) of 100% cotton worsted weight yarn: 2 balls each of Colors A, B and C; optional small amounts (approx. 13 yards each) of 7 Chakra stripe colors, or 2 more balls of Color D of your choice.
  • I/9 Crochet Hook
  • J/10 Crochet Hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Measuring tape/ruler
  • 1-inch button
  • Large Eye sewing needle

Stitch abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Double Crochet (DC)
  • Slip Stitch (SL ST)
I recommend using recycled cotton yarn. This Re-Up yarn is what I used for the gray section of my bag and it’s really soft and easy to work with.

Pattern:

Note: The bag pictured was made holding two strands of worsted weight cotton yarn together. The measurements are based on this method and the hook sizes mentioned.

Step 1: Holding 2 stands of Color A yarn together and using the size J/10 hook, create a Magic Circle, or CH 4 and SL ST the last CH to the first CH.

Step 2: CH 2, 8 SC into the Magic Circle or the CH 4 circle. SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 3: CH 2, 2 SC in each stitch around (16 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 4: CH 2, *1 SC in first stitch, 2 SC in next stitch*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (24 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 5: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 2 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (32 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 6: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 3 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (40 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 7: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 4 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (48 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 8: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 5 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (48 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 9: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 6 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (56 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 10: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 7 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (64 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 11: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 8 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (72 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Part 2:

Row 1: CH 3 (counts as a stitch). DC around all SC from previous row, no increases. SL ST to 3rd CH in CH 3.

Rows 2-6: Repeat Row 1 five more times (6 rows of DC of Color A).

Rows 7-15: Change to Color B, repeat Row 1 for 9 rows.

Rows 16-22: Optional Chakra Stripes: 7 more rows, each of a different color corresponding to the 7 chakras: red, orange, yellow, green, light blue, dark blue, purple. Or change to Color D for 7 rows.

Row 23: Last DC row in Color C.

Strap:

Step 1: Holding 2 stands of Color C together and using J hook, CH 8. SL ST to 1st CH, forming a circle.

Step 2: CH 3. DC in each CH around (7 DC). Without joining, continue to DC in a continuous loop, forming a tube.

Step 3: Continue DC until tube reaches 60 inches. To finish, SC in next ST, then SL ST to last stitch.

Step 4: Pull long tail through and sew both ends together.

Step 5: To attach the strap to the bag body, lay the bag flat with the seam in the back. Place stitch markers in the center of the front and back of the bag. Fold strap in half and attach each end to the sides of the bag with stitch markers.

Step 6: Sew the handle to the bag using Color D, leaving a gap of 4 DC’s on either side of the mid-point of the front and back of the bag.

Pocket:

Shown are two pocket options:

Option 1 on the left and Option 2 on the right.

Step 1: Using 1 stand of yarn color C and size I/9 hook, CH 17. SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC across (16 SC).

Step 2: CH 1, SC in back loop only across (16 SC).

Step 3: CH 1, turn, SC in the front loop of the previous row you just worked the SC in the back loops.

Shown is the row made in the front loop of the previous row, with the back loop only row in front.

Step 4: SC across. When you reach the end CH1 and SC in the next SC on the other side, completing the loop.

Step 5: SC around the loop, working 1 SC in each of the CH spaces (34 SC).

Step 6, Option 1: Repeat continuous rows of SC for 22 rows total. Skip to step 7.

Step 6, Option 2: Complete one more row of SC. Start to DC, continuing for 7 rows. SC last row.

Step 7: Decrease first 2 stitches, SC across to last 2 stitches, decrease. CH 1, turn. Repeat decrease of first 2 stitches, SC across, and decrease last 2 stitches until the final row of 2 decreases. Chain 7 and SL ST to second SC to create button loop. Weave in end.

Step 8: Sew on a button of your choice.

Pocket Option 1.
Pocket Option 2 (shown in final product photos).

Final measurements:

Width: 12 in./30 cm.

Height (with mat inside): 18 in./46 cm.

Namaste!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The February Sky Scarf

When I decided to start blogging about crochet projects I knew I wanted to create a pattern that I could name after my blog. A signature item, if you will. It’s kind of corny, but after many tests and trials and failures and finally success, I’m proud to call this pattern the February Sky Scarf.

You can purchase a beautifully formatted and ad-free PDF of this pattern on my Etsy! It is 4 pages, full color and includes instructions for both the infinity scarf and cowl versions.

If you’re looking for a pretty scarf that will go with every outfit and keep you warm during the long winter months, you’ve come to the right place! This scarf was made to be loose around the neck, uses any worsted yarn you have in your stash, and has an interesting stitch that looks more complicated than it is.

The pattern uses a two-row repeat and only uses one slightly advanced technique (double crocheting stitches together), but once you get the hang of it you’ll have the scarf done in no time!

The pattern provides two options: a long infinity scarf that you can wrap twice around your neck, or a short cowl that’s a little thicker but will still drape and make a great accessory to your outfit.

The February Sky Scarf

Materials

  • 2 skeins (about 400 yards) of worsted weight yarn- pictured is Caron Simply Soft in Purple for the infinity version and Pagoda for the cowl
  • Size N hook
  • Large Eye Thread Needle

Abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Skip (SK)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Double Crochet (DC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)
  • Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops (three loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook into third stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, then yarn over and pull through remaining four loops. Stitch finished.

NOTES

  • The scarf is made holding two strands of worsted weight yarn together. The scarf can also be made with bulky weight yarn instead.
  • The DC 3 in Row 1 and 3 is different than the 3DCT in Row 2. “DC 3” means to make 3 separate double crochets in the same stitch. See above for 3DCT.
  • The CH 2 at the beginning of Row 2 does not count as a stitch.
  • In Row 2, there are chains after the 2DCT, SC’s and 3DCT’s, but you do not skip a stitch after the chains.
  • Chains do not count toward stitch count in each row.

PATTERN:

Infinity Scarf:

CH 18.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SK. DC 3 in the next ST (see notes). SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC. (17 ST)

Row 2: Turn. CH 2. 2DCT, CH, SC, CH, *3DCT, CH, SC, CH*. Repeat from * to * three times. 2DCT in the last 2 ST’s. (17 ST)

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in 1st ST (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). SK (the CH from the last row). *DC 3 in the SC from the previous row, SK, SC.* Repeat from * to * across. (17 ST)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until scarf reaches desired length (50-60”), being sure to end with a Row 3. Sew ends together with a whip stitch to create an infinity scarf (25-30”).

Cowl:

CH 30.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SK. DC 3 in the next ST (see notes). SK, SC, *SK, DC 3, SK, SC*. Repeat from * to * across. (29 ST)

Row 2: Turn. CH 2. 2DCT, CH, SC, CH, *3DCT, CH, SC, CH*. Repeat from * to * 5 times. 2DCT in the last 2 ST’s. (29 ST)

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in 1st ST (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). SK (the chain from the last row). *DC 3 in the SC from the previous row, SK, SC.* Repeat from * to * across. (29 ST)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 40 rows, being sure to end with a Row 3. Sew ends together with a whip stitch.

I hope you’ll try it and feel empowered when you wear it. For me, it symbolizes going after my goals, even when they’re half-formed and take a lot more work than I originally thought. And beyond any symbolism, I think it’s really pretty and I hope you do too.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Move Mountains Baby Blanket

I got a text from one of my good friends showing me the beautiful mountain mural she’d put up in the nursery for the baby boy she’s expecting in a couple months. She lives far from me and I knew I wanted to send her a baby care package that included a crochet blanket using the colors in the mural. After browsing through some baby blanket patterns on Pinterest I had an idea- what if I not only incorporated the colors of the mural into the blanket, but the design as well? And so, the Move Mountains baby blanket was born!

“Kid, you’ll move mountains!”- Dr. Seuss
This is the picture she sent me of the nursery! Mountain decal purchased from PearlWall’s Etsy shop.

I had never made a blanket like this before and knew I’d need a visual to keep track of when I should be adding my colors. I used the website Stitch Fiddle to design a template for my blanket, and after a lot of trial and error this was what I came up with:

The blanket is worked entirely in single crochet and is 60 stitches across by 70 rows tall. The finished blanket came out to 36 inches by 32 inches using super bulky yarn and a size P hook.

The trickiest part of the blanket is knowing how to do the color changes correctly. Once you count your stitches and know where you’re supposed to be starting a new color you begin your single crochet in the stitch before the first stitch of the new color, and instead of finishing the single crochet with the first color you pull in the new color to finish it. Then you single crochet with the new color in the next stitch, which is your first stitch of the new color.

Here I was finishing with the light gray yarn and before completing my SC I would pull up the navy blue yarn to finish it and then continue on with the blue yarn, leaving the light gray strand until I came back to it in the next row.

By increasing or decreasing one stitch of a color, depending on where you are in the pattern, your colors will move up and down diagonally and create the mountain slopes.

If you want to cut back on the number of ends you need to weave in, like I always try to do, you’ll be working with multiple balls of yarn at once, picking them up and dropping them as you move across the rows.

Stitch abbreviations:

  • SC = single crochet
  • CH = chain

Materials: 

3 skeins each of-

Lion Brand Hometown USA Yarn – San Diego Navy

.

Lion Brand Hometown USA Yarn Dallas Grey

.

Lion Brand Yarn Hometown USA Yarn Springfield Silver

.

Crochet Hook, Size P-15, 10mm

.

Large-Eye Sewing Needle

_________

Pattern:

Chain 61

Row 1: Using Color A (dark gray), SC in the 2nd stitch from the hook and continue across. 60 SC.

R2-10: CH 1 (does not count as SC), turn. SC across.

R11:  CH 1, turn. SC across until there are two stitches from the end. Join Color B (navy blue) in SC 59 and do one SC of Color B in SC 60.

R12:  CH 1, turn. SC with Color B in first stitch. Start the SC in the second stitch and pick up Color A yarn to finish. SC across with Color A.

R13:  CH 1, turn. SC with Color A across until the 4th stitch from the end (SC 57). Pick up Color B and SC to end.

R14:  CH 1, turn. SC with Color B for three stitches. Start 4th SC and join Color A. SC across with Color A for 18 stitches. Join a second skein of Color B for one SC. Don’t finish the SC of Color B, but add a second skein of Color A and SC across to the second to last stitch. Join the 3rd skein of Color B and SC the last stitch.

R15-23:  CH 1, turn. Continue to SC with Colors A and B, increasing Color B and decreasing Color A one SC on each side of the mountain peaks with each row.

R24:  CH 1, turn. SC across, dropping 2nd Color B skein and continuing with 1st skein until Color A change.

R25-31:  CH 1, turn. Continue decreasing Color A.

R32-36:  CH 1, turn. SC across with Color B.

R37:  CH 1, turn. SC across with Color B for 15 stitches. Join with Color C (light gray) for one SC, join 2nd ball of Color B, SC across to SC 49, join 2nd skein of Color C, SC one and join 3rd skein of Color B. SC with Color B until second to last stitch, join 3rd skein of Color C, SC one.

R38-53:  CH 1, turn. SC across, decreasing Color B by one on each side of the mountain peaks until they all reach their tops.

R54-70:  CH 1, turn. SC across with Color C.

Note: Be sure to consult the stitch chart for help with color changes and row numbers!

I’ll be mailing the blanket this week, along with a onesie I found with little mountains on it (gotta love a theme!). I love how this blanket came out and I can’t wait to see pictures of it in the nursery and especially with her little boy!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

***This post contains affiliate links. Thanks for your support!

Two-Toned Tassel Baby Blanket

I love making blankets for friends and family who are having babies and imagining them wrapping their little bundles in something soft and warm and made with love.

This beginner-friendly blanket is worked up quickly using the moss stitch and super bulky yarn and is a perfect gift for winter babies.

The Two-toned Tassel Baby Blanket uses two contrasting colors and the rows are staggered so the colors fade into each other. This is the perfect blanket for tucking into a stroller on a windy day or laying out on the rug for play time.

The pattern below is for the baby blanket size, 30 by 35 inches. You can purchase a low-cost, ad-free PDF that contains full color diagrams and instructions on how to adjust this pattern for different blanket sizes on my Etsy.

Materials

  • Two colors of super bulky (level 6) yarn. For the baby blanket size (instructions provided for this size), you’ll use about 648 yards total, 324 of each color. I used 4 balls each (8 total) of Lion Brand Hometown USA yarn. Pictured is Springfield Silver and Montpelier Peacock.
  • Size N hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors

Stitches Used

  • Chain (CH)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Skip (SK)

Notes

The finished blanket baby blanket is 35 inches long by 30 inches wide (without the tassels) and starts with 8 rows of Color A. For more size options, check out the PDF pattern on my Etsy.

Baby Blanket Size

Pattern:

  • Starting with Color A, CH 76
  • Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from the hook, *CH, SK, SC*. Repeat * to * until end.
  • Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the 1st ST from the previous row. SC in the next CH space. *CH, SK, SC in the chain space from previous row*. Repeat * to * across, ending with a SC in the last ST.
  • Row 3: CH 1, turn. SC in the 1st ST. *CH, SK, SC*. Repeat from * to * across, ending with a SC in the last ST.
  • Rows 4-8: Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 8 rows.
  • Row 9: Using Color B, CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3. 1 row.
  • Rows 10-16: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 7 rows.
  • Rows 17-18: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd row and Row 2 for even row. 2 rows.
  • Rows 19-24: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 6 rows.
  • Rows 25-27: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 3 rows.
  • Rows 28-32: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 5 rows.
  • Rows 33-36: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 4 rows.
  • Rows 37-40: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 4 rows.
  • Rows 41-45: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 5 rows.
  • Rows 46-48: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 3 rows.
  • Rows 49-54: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 6 rows.
  • Row 55-56: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd row and Row 2 for even row. 2 rows.
  • Rows 57-63: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 7 rows.
  • Row 64: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2. 1 row.
  • Rows 65-72: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 8 rows.
  • Tie off and weave in ends!
Stroller blanket size (26 by 28 in.)

To make the tassels:

You’ll create 12 tassels, 6 of each color, and attach them to the ends of the blanket. Use Color A tassels on the Color B end and vice versa.

Step 1: Cut 12 16″ lengths of each color, 24 total.

Step 2: Using a 9″ book, wrap yarn around 12 times.

Step 3: Slip yarn off book and use a 16″ yarn piece to tie a couple surgeons’ knots in the center of the yarn. Cut the loops on either end of the bundle.

Step 4: Fold the bundle in half so the ends are together. Using another 16″ length, tie a few surgeons’ knots about 1.5″ from the top.

Step 5: Trim the ends so they’re even and repeat 11 more times.

Step 6: Tie the tassels to the edges of the blanket, spaced evenly about 5 inches apart. Use a sewing needle to pull the loose ends through the tops of the tassels so they’re more secure.

I’d love to see the colors you use for your own Two-Toned Tassel blanket! Make sure to tag me on Instagram and share the crochet love.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.


You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!