The Autumn In Love Trio

Can you fall in love with a season? I find myself falling in love with all things autumn every year- the cooler weather that turns the air crisp and the leaves golden, not to mention pumpkin spice coffee, warm scented candles, fluffy blankets- to me, this is perfection. I want to savor this season, and creating beautiful accessories that capture this cozy and colorful time of year is how I like to do it! Read on to see how you can create three lovely and beginner friendly patterns that will help you feel the love this fall!

Introducing- the Autumn in Love Trio!

It started out with the shawl- a simple double crochet repeat that really lets the colors you pick become the stars of the show. I chose an early autumn palette using my favorite worsted weight yarn, Lion Brand Jeans, along with a blush yarn I found. The best part of this shawl, besides how meditative the repeats are (this is a perfect Netflix companion project!), is that the color changes happen whenever you feel like it! Grab a few different yarns from your stash and see where your creativity takes you.

Save your leftover yarn to make the next two patterns in the set- the matching hair scarf and mug cozy! The hair scarf uses the same stitches and increase technique as the shawl, and it’s the perfect accessory to tie your hair back while you’re apple picking or on a hayride (okay, I don’t think most people do hayrides every fall- but it gets windy where I live this time of year!). Then when you get home and it’s time for a chai tea to wind down you’ll have the perfect mug cozy to keep your hands cool and your drink warm! These two patterns are so quick, you’ll have them both done in a night!

The written patterns for all three items are below- keep scrolling to check them out!

THE AUTUMN IN LOVE SHAWL PATTERN

Have I gushed about this shawl enough yet? The great thing about this pattern is that every row is the same, so once you have the increases down you can sit and relax and watch the shawl come to life. I haven’t put in color changes in the pattern, because those are entirely up to you! You can also use one color and it’ll be equally beautiful-especially after you add tassels!

This wrap is not an equilateral triangle, it’s an isosceles- flashback to middle school geometry, that means the two sides are equal in length and shorter than the base side. This makes a shorter triangle, which will wrap around your neck really well when you wear it in front. That’s my favorite way to style a triangle scarf!

PROJECT SUPPLIES:

  • Approximately 800 yards of worsted (Level 4) weight yarn, in multiple colors if desired
  • Size J/10 6 mm crochet hook, or size to match gauge
  • Scissors
  • Yarn Needle

GAUGE: 8 x 8 rows of pattern = 4″, 10 cm

SIZE: 80″ (203 cm) long by 24″ (61 cm) from top edge to bottom of triangle

TECHNIQUES USED:

Magic Circle (MC)

Chain (CH)

Double Crochet (DC)

PATTERN NOTES:

  • The pattern starts with a Magic Circle. One way to do an MC is to wrap the yarn in an “X” around your hand. Working into the top two strands of the X, push your hook under the first strand, grabbing the second strand and pulling it under the first strand. Take the loop off your hand, being careful to keep the loop on your hook. Begin R1.
  • Each row of the shawl has an equal number of DC’s and CH’s. For example, R1 has 6 DC’s and 6 CH’s, 12 stitches total.
  • The CH 4 at the start of each row counts as 1 DC and 1 CH. The CH 2 in the center of each row counts as 2 stitches.
  • The DC’s of each row after R1 are worked in the CH spaces of the previous row.
  • The center of each row after R1 has the same *DC, CH 2, DC* worked in the CH 2 space of the previous row.
  • Each row is increased by 8 stitches. There are 3 extra stitches on each end and 2 in the center. The first increase is made by chaining 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 CH) and then working a DC in the first DC from the previous row. You then chain 1 and work a DC in the very next chain space. The other end is increased by working a *DC, CH, DC* into the 3rd chain of the turning CH 4.

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:

Using a 6mm hook, begin with a Magic Circle (see notes).

Row 1: CH 4. Working into MC, DC, CH, DC, CH 2, DC, CH, DC, CH, DC. (12 ST, 6 DC and 6 CH)

Row 2: CH 4. DC in the 1st DC of the last row. CH, DC in 1st chain space. CH, DC in next CH space. CH, in the CH 2 space from the previous row, *DC, CH 2, DC*. CH, DC in next CH space, CH, DC in the CH space made by the CH 4 of the previous row. In the 3rd CH of starting CH 4, *DC, CH, DC*. (20 ST, 10 DC and 10 CH)

Repeat Row 2, with a DC in each CH space along each side, for a total of 46 rows, or until the shawl has reached your desired size. Keep it monotone, or change up the colors at the end of a row to create stripes! The options are endless.

Don’t forget the tassels! (See below.)

TASSELS:

You’ll create two tassels and attach them to each ends of the shawl.

Step 1: Using any color worsted yarn, cut 4 16″ lengths.

Step 2: Using a 9″ book, wrap 1 strand of yarn around 60 times (or hold 4 strands together and wrap 15 times).

Step 3: Slip yarn off book and use a 16″ yarn piece to tie a couple knots in the center of the yarn. Cut the loops on either end of the bundle.

Step 4: Fold the bundle in half so the ends are together. Using another 16 in. length, tie a few knots about 1.5″ from the top.

Step 5: Trim the ends so they’re even and attach the tassel to the end of the shawl securely.

Repeat steps for second tassel.

THE AUTUMN IN LOVE HAIR SCARF

Have you worn a hair scarf before? There’s no one correct way to do it- if you can think it up, you can wear it! I like to wear it as a headband, but I think it’s really cute as a bow too. You can even tie it to the strap of a bag as a pop of color!

PROJECT SUPPLIES:

  • Approximately 50 yards of worsted (Level 4) weight yarn
  • Size J/10 6 mm crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Yarn Needle

SIZE: 33″ long by 2.5″ wide

STITCHES USED:

Chain (CH)

Double Crochet (DC)

PATTERN NOTES:

  • The scarf is 33 inches long and will stretch when worn. To make it longer or shorter, change the starting chain by adding or subtracting 5 chains (always an odd number). To make it wider, continue adding rows past row 5 (knowing it will increase the length as well).
  • The DC’s of each row after R1 are worked in the CH spaces of the previous row.
  • The CH 4 at the start of each row counts as 1 DC and 1 CH.
  • Each row is increased by 6 stitches. There are 3 extra stitches on each end. The first increase is made by chaining 4 (counts as 1 DC and 1 CH) and working a DC in the first DC from the previous row, then chaining 1 and working a DC in the next chain space. The other end is increased by working a *DC, CH, DC* into the 3rd chain of the turning CH 4.

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:

Using your 6 mm hook, CH 111.

Row 1: DC in 5th CH from the hook. *CH 1, skip the next CH, DC*. Repeat from * to * to end of chain, making sure you end with a DC in the last CH.

Row 2: CH 4, DC in the 1st DC, CH, DC in the CH space directly next to the 1st DC from the previous row. *CH, DC in next CH space*. Repeat from * to * across until you reach the starting CH 4. DC in the space made by the starting CH 4, CH, *DC, CH, DC* in the 3rd CH of starting CH 4.

Rows 3-5: Repeat Row 2 for 5 total rows. Cut and weave in ends.

THE AUTUMN IN LOVE MUG COZY PATTERN

I’ll admit, I’m an iced coffee every morning kind of girl- but in the evenings you can find me with a mug of hot tea more often than not! I love these little coordinating mug cozies because not only are they cute, but they’re also functional- no one wants to burn their hands on a hot mug! These use just a bit of yarn and whichever cute buttons you have on hand. They’d made great gifts or craft fair items. That is, after you’ve made a couple for yourself!

PROJECT SUPPLIES:

  • Worsted (Level 4) weight yarn
  • Size J/10 6 mm crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Yarn Needle
  • Two .5″ buttons

SIZE: 10″ by 3.5″

STITCHES USED:

Chain (CH)

Single Crochet (SC)

Double Crochet (DC)

PATTERN NOTES:

  • The CH 4 at the beginning of Row 3 and each repeat counts as 1 DC and 1 CH.
  • Pattern as written fits a large mug, about 5″ tall and a 3.5″ diameter. For a taller mug, add to starting chain in multiples of 2 (always an odd number). For a thicker mug, continue repeating Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 3.

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:

Using your 6mm hook and worsted yarn, CH 15.

Row 1: DC in 5th CH from the hook. *CH, SK, DC in next CH*. Repeat to end. (7 DC, including starting CH 4)

Row 2: CH 1 (does not count as a ST). SC in each DC and CH space across, ending with a SC in the 3rd CH of the starting CH 4. (13 SC)

Row 3: CH 4. Skip first 2 SC, DC in 3rd SC. *CH, SK, DC* across, ending with a DC in the last SC. (13 ST, 7 DC)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for a total of 23 rows (ending on a Row 3).

Edge: CH 1, SC 4, CH 10, SC 5, CH 10, SC 4 (end of top edge).

CH 2, turn the corner, SC 2 in each DC row and SC 1 in each SC row. (35 SC)

CH 2, turn to the bottom edge, SC across. (13 SC)

CH 2, turn to last side, repeat SC pattern from 2nd side. (35 SC)

CH 2, slip stitch to the 1st SC of the top edge. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons: Sew two buttons to the opposite side of the cozy from the CH 10 loops, spacing them so the buttons have 3 DC’s between them. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Thank you for your support (just by being here!), and I look forward to seeing your creations on Instagram- be sure to tag me @FebruarySkyDesigns and tag your pics with the hashtag #autumninlovepatterns!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The Inselberg Backpack Pattern

I’m new to hiking, and one of the first things I realized I needed (besides bug spray!), was a bag to keep my hands free and hold the essentials. I didn’t want a full-size backpack, but it needed to be big enough for a water bottle and snacks. I figured I could make a bag that would check all the boxes, and that’s how the Inselberg backpack was created!

Having taken it out on the trails a few times now I can attest that it’s the perfect size to carry all the essentials, and the color possibilities are endless! Using Caron Cotton Cakes yarn and holding two strands together creates a durable and structured bag that’s still lightweight and won’t slow you down. Read on to see how to make your own Inselberg Backpack, and become the outdoorsy person you’ve always wanted to be! (And still have cute accessories.)

Inselberg Backpack Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Skip (SK)

-Stitch (ST)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Two Single Crochet (2SC)

Materials:

  • J/10 (6 mm) Crochet Hook
  • I/9 (5.5 mm) Crochet Hook
  • Two skeins worsted weight level 4 yarn, 100% cotton or a cotton/acrylic blend, about 300 yards each. (Different colors are optional. Pictured is Caron Cotton Cakes in Silver Cloud and Fruit Tropical.)

Notes:

  • The Inselberg Backpack is made by holding two strands of yarn together simultaneously to create a stronger structure.
  • The rounds are joined by an invisible slip stitch and each round is started with a chainless single crochet, which counts as one SC. If you’re not familiar with these techniques you can see a more detailed tutorial here or use a standard slip stitch and chain 1 at the beginning of each row, which will not count as a stitch.
  • The chart below shows how to make the bag base. The instructions are also written out in the pattern directions with accompanying photos. The body of the bag is made in joined rows without any increases.
  • The oval base can be thought of as two half circles on either end of a rectangle. The middle of the rectangle will always be 11 SC’s, which is why they are written out separately in the pattern instructions to help keep track of where the increases go.
  • The colors of the bag are entirely up to you! I joined the Fruit Tropical yarn a couple rows above the base and then re-joined the Silver Cloud yarn at the top, but your version can be whatever you’d like!

Techniques used:

-Invisible Slip Stitch – Photo Instructions here.

-Chainless SC – Photo Instructions here.

-Crochet I-cord – Instructions by Yarnspirations

-Thermal Stitch – Youtube video by Sewrella

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:

Base:

CH 14.

Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in the next 11 CH’s. 3SC in final CH. Turn, SC in the bottom CH strand of the next 11 CH’s. 2SC in last CH. Join to 1st SC of round with an invisible SL ST (see notes). (28 ST)

R2: 2SC, SC 11, 2SC in the next 3 ST, SC 11, 2SC in the next 2 ST, join. (34 ST)

R3: 2SC, SC, SC 11, 2SC, SC, 2SC, SC, 2SC, SC, SC 11, 2SC, SC, 2SC, SC, join. (40 ST)

R4: SC 2, 2SC, SC 11, SC 2, 2SC, SC 2, 2SC, SC 2, 2SC, SC 11, SC 2, 2SC, SC 2, 2SC, join. (46 ST)

R5: 2SC, SC 3, SC 11, 2SC, SC 3, 2SC, SC 3, 2SC, SC 3, SC 11, 2SC, SC 3, 2SC, SC 3, join. (52 ST)

R6: SC 3, 2 SC, SC, SC 11, SC 3, 2SC, SC 4, 2SC, SC 4, 2SC, SC, SC 11, SC 3, 2SC, SC 4, 2SC, SC, join. (58 ST)

R7: SC, 2SC, SC 5, SC 11, 2SC, SC 5, 2SC, SC 5, 2SC, SC 5, SC 11, 2SC, SC 5, 2SC, SC 4, join. (64 ST)

R8: SC 5, 2SC, SC 2, SC 11, SC 4, 2SC, SC 6, 2SC, SC 6, 2SC, SC 2, SC 11, SC 4, 2SC, SC 6, 2SC, SC 1, join. (70 ST)

Body:

R9-41: SC around. (70 ST)

R42: SC 3, CH 1, SK 1, *SC 6, CH 1, SK 1*, repeat from * to * 6 times, SC 3, join. (70 ST)

R43: SC around in all SC’s and CH spaces. (70 ST)

R44: SC around. Fasten off and weave in ends. (70 ST)

I-cord:

Using 1 strand of yarn and a I/9 5.5mm hook, create an iCord that is 42 inches long. See Techniques for tutorial link.

Weave the I-cord through the CH spaces you made in Round 42, making the ends stick out of the front two holes so you can cinch the bag closed.

If you’d like to make a loop for hanging the bag, make another I-cord that is 6 inches long and attach it to the top back center of the bag body, just below the cinch cord.

STRAPS:

For Thermal Stitch tutorial, see link in Techniques section.

CH 7.

SC in 2nd CH from hook and each CH across (6 ST).

CH 1, turn. SC thermal stitch until strap measures 30 inches (adjust to preference, as it will stretch a bit when used).

Make 2. Attach each strap to the top center of the back under the cord and on either side of the bottom just above the base oval (see photos).

Final measurements:

Width: 11”/28 cm

Height: 11”/28 cm from top of bag to start of base, 14”/36 cm from top of bag to center of base.

I hope you’ll make your own Inselberg backpack to take on all your outdoor activities this summer! If you do, be sure to tag me on Instagram so I can share your work! Happy hiking!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt

The holiday season can be hectic (and expensive), so I’m bringing you a quick and easy project that you can whip up in one night when you’re taking a break from online shopping and holiday parties. If you have a small tabletop tree that’s looking a little under-dressed then this is the pattern for you!

This tree skirt is named after the baubles that adorn the tree, and the bobbles that amp up the texture of this simple and festive Christmas decor item. This skirt will fit a tree between 2 and 4 feet tall (mine was 3!).

I wanted a quick and squishy skirt so I reached for super bulky level 6 yarn. Pictured here is Bernat Softee Chunky in the colors Grey Ragg and Wine in the photos below. Any other super bulky yarn would work great, like Lion Brand Wool Ease or Hometown USA. You’ll also need a nice big size P crochet hook.

Starting this pattern is very similar to making any circular crochet project, except you’re not joining in the round so you can slip the skirt around the base of the tree.

The bobbles are added every 4 rows and most rows are just single crochets with increases every so often, so this pattern is very beginner friendly!

After a few rounds you can see how the circle is coming together. If you only have 1 ball of yarn you can get through row 15, which will make a smaller skirt best for a 2 foot tree. You’ll need 1.5 balls of yarn, or about 160 yards, to make the full 19 inch skirt.

Now that I’ve talked you through it a bit, let’s get to the pattern! Be sure to read the notes so you can easily follow the annotations in the pattern and breeze through this project.

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Stitch (ST)

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

Materials:

-2 balls of Super Bulky (level 6) yarn, about 160 yards

-Size P-15 (10 mm) crochet hook

Final measurements:

19 in./48 cm. in diameter

Special Stitch:

Bobble: Yarn over (YO), insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.

Notes:

  • When an instruction indicates a number after a stitch (ex. SC 2), it means to make a single crochet in the next two stitches. When a, instruction has a number before the stitch (ex. 2SC), it means to make two single crochets into one stitch space.
  • The annotation “1SC+Bobble” means you make one single crochet and one bobble stitch in the same space (making an increase).

Pattern:

Chain 7.

Row 1: Starting from the 2nd CH from the hook, SC across. (6 STS)

Row 2: CH 1, turn. 2SC in each ST across. (12 STS)

R3: CH 1, turn. *SC, 2SC*, repeat across. (18 STS)

R4: CH 1, turn. SC 1. In the next stitch, 1SC+Bobble. *SC 2, 1SC+Bobble*.  Repeat across, ending with SC. (24 STS, 6 Bobbles)

R5: CH 1, turn. *SC 3, 2SC*. Repeat across. (30 STS)

R6: CH 1, turn. SC 2, *2SC, SC 4*, repeat across. End with SC 2. (36 STS)

R7: CH 1, turn. *SC 5, 2SC*, repeat across. (42 STS)

R8: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*. Repeat across to last 3 STS, SC 1, Bobble, SC 1. (48 STS, 12 Bobbles)

R9: CH 1, turn. *SC 7, 2SC*, repeat across. (54 STS)

R10: CH 1, turn. SC 4, *2SC, SC 8*, repeat across. End with SC 4. (60 STS)

R11: CH 1, turn. *SC 9, 2SC*, repeat across. (66 STS)

R12: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 2, *1SC+ Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 2*. Repeat to last 5 stitches. SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (72 STS, 18 Bobbles)

R13: CH 1, turn. *SC 11, 2SC*, repeat across. (78 STS)

R14: CH 1, turn. SC 6, *2SC, SC 12*, repeat across. End with SC 6. (84 STS)

R15: CH 1, turn. *SC 13, 2SC*, repeat across. (90 STS)

R16: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*, repeat to last 7 stitches, SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (96 STS, 24 Bobbles)

R17: CH 1, turn. *SC 15, 2SC*, repeat across. (102 STS)

R18: CH 1, turn. SC 8, *2SC, SC 16*, repeat across. End with SC 8. (108 STS)

R19: CH 1, turn. *SC 17, 2SC*, repeat across. (114 STS)

If you make your own mini bauble tree skirt please tag me on Instagram because I love seeing your recreations and I bet there could be some amazing tree skirts made with different yarns!

Thanks for reading and have a lovely holiday season!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The Braeburn Beanie

There are few things that make me more excited about life than when the leaves start turning, apples are filling branches and pumpkins are popping up in the fields- I’m talking about fall! I have been so inspired this season, and one thing I knew I needed to create was a soft, slouchie, and lightweight beanie for the chilly fall days and nights. I named this hat the Braeburn Beanie in honor of the apples that fill the orchards this time of year.

I used two of my current favorites for this easy beginner beanie- Lion Brand Jeans yarn and the Half Double Crochet V-stitch. This is a simple stitch that will make a really great texture on your beanie. Any worsted weight yarn will work but Jeans is soft and silky and makes the perfect hat. If you can get your hands on the Colors line, I used Cordoroy, the pretty plum color that I can’t get enough of.

Let’s get to the pattern!

The Braeburn Beanie Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Slip Stitch (SL ST)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Half Double Crochet (HDC)

– Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (HDCV)

-Half Double Crochet 2 Together (HDC2TOG)

Special Stitches:

Half Double Crochet V-Stitch (HDCV): 1HDC, CH 1, 1HDC in the same stitch

Half Double Crochet 2 Together (HDC2TOG): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all four loops.

Note:

A technique used in this beanie is the invisible slip stitch and chainless half double crochet. If you’re unfamiliar with those techniques check out my simple summer market bag pattern for a detailed explanation with lots of pictures (just changing the chainless double crochet with a chainless half double for this beanie).

Materials:

-Worsted weight (level 4) yarn, about 150 yards- I used half a skein of Lion Brand Jeans Colors in Corduroy

-Size I/9 5.5mm Crochet Hook

-Stitch Markers (optional)

-Sewing Needle

-Fur Pom or Yarn Pom (Optional)

Final Measurments: 8.5”/22cm wide, 9.5”/24cm tall, 18”/46cm circumference

Pattern:

Beanie Band:

CH 11.

R1: HDC in 2nd CH from the hook. HDC to end. (10 HDC)

R2: CH 1, turn. HDC in the back loop of each HDC across (10 HDC).

Repeat R2 until band measures 18 in. long (adjust as needed, should wrap around head fully), about 42 rows.

SL ST band edges together.

Beanie Body:

R1: SC around the hat band, making sure to end in an even number (62 SC with a 42 row band). Invisible slip stitch (or regular slip stitch) to first SC.

R2: Make a chainless HDC. Place a stitch marker in the top of the HDC (optional). *Skip 1 SC, HDCV in the next SC*. Repeat from * to * around, with the last HDCV in the 2nd to last SC. SK last SC and SL ST to the chainless HDC. (30 HDCV + 1 HDC)

R3: Make a chainless HDC. Place a stitch marker in the top of the HDC (optional). HDCV in the chain space of each HDCV from the previous row. SL ST to the 1st chainless HDC. (30 HDCV + 1 HDC)

Repeat R3 for 18 rows of HDCV stitches total. (Add a couple more rows for a slouchier beanie or less for a shorter beanie.)

R19: Chainless HDC. *1 HDCV in first HDCV, 1 HDC in next HDCV*, repeat * to * around. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R20: 1 HDC in each HDCV CH space and each single HDC around. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R21: HDC2TOG around each HDC. SL ST to chainless HDC.

R22: HDC2TOG around each HDC2TOG. SL ST to chainless HDC.

Pull up a long tail after final SL ST and whip stitch around the final HDC2TOG’s, pulling tight. Use tail to attach a fur or yarn pom, tie off.

That’s it! I hope you make your own Braeburn Beanie and take it apple picking on a chilly (but sunny!) fall day!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Simple Summer Market Bag

Hello summer-loving peeps! It’s time for beach days, day trips and farmer’s markets, and this handy bag has you covered! It’s the perfect size to throw your lunch and a book into or some local fruits and veggies, and it’s really cute to boot. Plus if you use recycled yarn like I did you can feel even better about making your own reusable bags! Scroll down for the easy crochet pattern, which includes picture tutorials on how to not have an obvious seam running up your bag.

Simple Summer Market Bag Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Double Crochet (DC)

Materials:

  • 2 balls worsted weight cotton yarn, solid color- Pictured is Lion Brand Re-Up yarn in Grey
  • 1 ball light (level 3) weight cotton yarn, multi-colored- Pictured is Lion Brand Comfy Cotton yarn in Mai Tai
  • Size I/9 5.5 mm crochet hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape or ruler

Special Notes:

  • Each row made in the round (R22 and on) is joined with an invisible slip stitch. I added pictures to show how to do this, but joining with a regular slip stitch is also acceptable (but the join will be visible).
  • After the invisible join, I’ve used the chainless SC and the chainless DC. I’ve included pictures that show how to do this, but regular SC and DC are also acceptable.

Pattern:

Base

Using solid color cotton yarn (yarn A), CH 41.

Row 1: SC into 2nd CH from the hook. SC across (40 SC).

R2: CH 1, turn. SC across (40 SC).

R3-18: Repeat R2 for 18 rows total.

R19: At the end of row 18, CH 1 and rotate rectangle so you’re now working on the left side edge. SC in 1st row space. Skip next space and make 2 SC’s into the next space. Repeat skip and 2 SC’s until you reach the bottom, where your starting CH was begun. (16 SC)

R20: CH 1, rotate rectangle so you’re working along the starting CH. SC in each CH loop (40 SC)

R21: CH 1, repeat R19 along the right edge of the rectangle. When you reach the end, CH 1 and invisible slip stitch into the first SC from R18.

Invisible Slip Stitch:

Remove hook from working loop and insert it into the top of the SC, back to front.
Hook loop and pull through the stitch, front to back.
Invisible slip stitch is complete.

Chainless Single Crochet:

Pull up the loop a little higher than a SC.
Insert hook into same stitch you made your invisible slip stitch.
Yarn over and pull up a loop, like a normal SC. Finish SC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

R22: Chainless SC into 1st SC. Place a stitch marker into this SC. SC around the rectangle, making 1 SC in the corner CH’s. Join to 1st chainless SC.

R23-24: Repeat R22 twice, 3 rows total. Do not join at the end of R24.

Body

R25: Finish last SC with Yarn B (Comfy Cotton yarn). Join to the chainless SC from R24. Chainless DC into the SC (see photos).

Chainless Double Crochet:

Join Yarn B in last SC of previous row.
Invisible slip stitch.
Pull up loop a little higher than a normal DC.
Keeping one finger firmly holding the first loop in place on your hook, wrap the hook around the yarn so you have two “loops” on your hook.
Insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, being careful to keep the other two loops in place on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through first two loops, like a normal DC.
Yarn over again and pull through last two loops, completing the chainless DC. Place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

Place a stitch marker into the top of the chainless DC. *CH 1, skip 1, DC into next SC*. Repeat from * to * around the base, ending with a CH 1 before joining into 1st DC.

R26: Make a chainless DC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops (do this for all rows). *CH 1, DC into the top of next DC*. Repeat from * to * around the base. (59 DC) Join to 1st chainless DC.

R27-R44: Repeat R25 for 20 DC rows total. Do not join at the end of R44.

R45: Join Yarn A and slip stitch into 1st chainless DC from R44. Chainless SC and SC around in each DC and CH space. Join.

Strap

Lay bag body flat and use a ruler or measuring tape to find the mid-point. Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch of the front and back of the bag. Count 10 SC’s on each side of the midpoint and place a stitch marker in each spot. Remove the midpoint stitch markers. You’ll have 4 stitch markers in place, two on each side, with 20 SC’s in between.

R46: Chainless SC, then SC until you reach the first stitch marker. CH 50. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around to next stitch marker on the back of the bag. CH 50 again. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around until you reach the chainless SC. Join.

R47-R50: SC around all SC’s and the CH 50’s, joining each round, for 4 rows total. Tie off after joining the last row and weave in ends.

Final measurements:

Base: 12 x 5.5 in.

Body: 15 x 15 in.

Strap: 55 in.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Crochet Plant Hanger

Exciting news!! Many of my non-crocheter friends have asked if I could make one of my plant hangers for them, and I’m happy to say I can finally offer my plant hangers as custom made-to-order items on my Etsy! Check out the different color options and choose the perfect new home for your plant babies!

Custom Handmade Plant Hangers

~~~~~~~~~~~~

I live in a small apartment and my love for plants has meant that 90% of the available surfaces are covered in lovely green things. Unfortunately I need that other 10% to sleep and eat on, so I designed this cute little plant hanger so I can make use of my walls and keep this plant addiction going.

I’ve included step by step pictures along with the instructions to help you make your own little plant hanger. If you make one please be sure to tag me on Instragram (februaryskydesigns)!

Materials:

  • Bernat Home Dec Yarn, or similar Bulky Level 5 yarn made of cotton/acrylic and nylon.
  • size N/10 crochet hook
  • large eye sewing needle
  • stitch markers
  • 2.5 inch wooden ring (one per hanger)
  • 1.5 inch wooden ring (one per hanger)
  • large wooden beads (optional)

Stitch abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Skip (SK)
  • Slip Stitch (SL ST)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Half Double Crochet (HDC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Final measurements:

Width (before hanging): 8”

Height (before hanging): 10”

Notes:

-Pattern calls for holding two strands of Bernat Home Dec yarn (or similar) together and using them as one strand as you crochet. This yarn is a Bulky weight (5) yarn. Any yarn may be used for this pattern, but the size and structure might be affected.

-There is no CH before or after each 2DCT, starting in Round 3.

Pattern:

Round 1: CH 20. Work 3 SC onto 2.5” wooden ring.

Continue round with 19 more CH’s. SL ST onto first CH to create a circle as you’ll be working in the round for this pattern.

Round 2: CH 2 (counts as HDC). SK one CH, HDC into next CH. CH, SK, HDC until you reach the 3 SC’s on the ring. Work 1 HDC into each SC.

Continue to CH, SK, and HDC around until you reach the end of Round 1 (the first CH 2).

Round 3: HDC into the space made by the CH 2. Continue to CH and HDC into the CH spaces from the previous round until you reach the 3 HDC’s at the ring.

Without making a CH, 2DCT in the second 2 HDC’s you made on the ring. Place a stitch marker in the 2DCT if you need help finding it for the next round.

2DCT made in 2nd 2 HDC’s.

Do not CH after 2DCT. HDC in next CH space. CH, then continue HDC + CH around in the CH spaces.

HDC made in CH space next to completed 2DCT.

Round 4: Continue HDC + CH in the CH spaces of the previous round. When you reach the 2DCT from the previous row, make a 2DCT in the top of that stitch and the next HDC.

2DCT with a stitch marker used to show the HDC where you make the second part of the 2DCT stitch.
Finished 2DCT shown, with a stitch marker to show the CH space where you make your next HDC.
HDC completed, with stitch marker used to mark the 2DCT, which is where you start your 2DCT of each round.

Rounds 5 and 6: Repeat round 4, making your 2DCT in the 2DCT from the previous row and the HDC next to it.

Stitch marker in the 2DCT.

Round 7: Continue HDC + CH in the CH spaces until you reach the 2DCT from Round 6. Complete 2DCT as normal.

Finished 2DCT of Round 7.

Instead of making your next HDC after the 2DCT, continue to make 2DCT stitches in the CH spaces around the circle. Do not CH in between the 2DCT stitches.

Shown is 2nd 2DCT stitch made in the next 2 CH spaces after the 1st 2DCT.

Continue making 2DCT in the CH spaces. SL ST into the top of the 1st 2DCT to complete the round.

Completed round of 2DCT.

Bring a long tail through the SL ST and whip stitch around the 2DCT’s.

Pull the tail tight to close the circle. Tie off the tail, but don’t cut it off if you plan on adding a tassel.

The hard part’s over! Now you’ll want to weave in your starting tail, making sure to pull it across to make an even front edge.

It’s time to make the tassel! Using one strand of your yarn, make 11 loops about 10 inches long.

Cut the loops at the ends of the strands. Grab your smaller wooden ring, a wooden bead and your sewing needle. Taking another strand of yarn, bring one end through the bead, up through the ring, and back through the bead again. Tie the ring and bead to the tassel strands in the middle.

Using another strand of yarn, tie a knot about an inch under the top of the bunch. Weave the ends of this strand back into the middle of the bunch to hide the knot a little more. Then trim the bottom of the tassel to make a neat bottom.

Using the tail you left from the end of the planter base, take another bead and bring the yarn through it once, through the wooden ring, and then back up through the bead again.

Pull tight and weave in the end inside the plant hanger. You did it! You’re finished!

Use a 3×4 inch or 4×4 inch round plant pot without holes as the base of the planter. Add a plastic insert with holes and a small plant and sit back and enjoy!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Peaceful Warrior Yoga Bag

I’ve been practicing yoga on and off for the past 10 years. I don’t consider myself a “yogi”, but last year I started an at-home practice using free online yoga videos, and it was honestly one of the best things I did for myself during the hardest year of my life.

Home practice is great, but there’s nothing like a studio class to feel the connection that yoga can create. I crocheted my own mat bag a couple years ago when I started taking classes at a new studio, and I’m really excited to share the pattern with you so you can make your own!

The ritual of yoga is learning balance. I named my bag pattern after the pose “Peaceful Warrior” because that is how I want to live- in a state of calm surrender, strong enough to fight when it’s needed. Yoga can be a lot of things to different people, but at it’s core it is an act of self love. Who doesn’t need more of that in their lives?

This bag is the perfect companion for your studio practice. It’s roomy so you don’t have to struggle to get your mat inside, and it’ll fit your water bottle and wallet with a front pocket for your phone and keys! The colors are endlessly customizable, so have fun making it your own!

Peaceful Warrior Yoga Bag Crochet Pattern

Materials:

  • 8 balls (120 yards each) of 100% cotton worsted weight yarn: 2 balls each of Colors A, B and C; optional small amounts (approx. 13 yards each) of 7 Chakra stripe colors, or 2 more balls of Color D of your choice.
  • I/9 Crochet Hook
  • J/10 Crochet Hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Measuring tape/ruler
  • 1-inch button
  • Large Eye sewing needle

Stitch abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Double Crochet (DC)
  • Slip Stitch (SL ST)
I recommend using recycled cotton yarn. This Re-Up yarn is what I used for the gray section of my bag and it’s really soft and easy to work with.

Pattern:

Note: The bag pictured was made holding two strands of worsted weight cotton yarn together. The measurements are based on this method and the hook sizes mentioned.

Step 1: Holding 2 stands of Color A yarn together and using the size J/10 hook, create a Magic Circle, or CH 4 and SL ST the last CH to the first CH.

Step 2: CH 2, 8 SC into the Magic Circle or the CH 4 circle. SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 3: CH 2, 2 SC in each stitch around (16 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 4: CH 2, *1 SC in first stitch, 2 SC in next stitch*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (24 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 5: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 2 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (32 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 6: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 3 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (40 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 7: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 4 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (48 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 8: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 5 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (48 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 9: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 6 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (56 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 10: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 7 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (64 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 11: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 8 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (72 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Part 2:

Row 1: CH 3 (counts as a stitch). DC around all SC from previous row, no increases. SL ST to 3rd CH in CH 3.

Rows 2-6: Repeat Row 1 five more times (6 rows of DC of Color A).

Rows 7-15: Change to Color B, repeat Row 1 for 9 rows.

Rows 16-22: Optional Chakra Stripes: 7 more rows, each of a different color corresponding to the 7 chakras: red, orange, yellow, green, light blue, dark blue, purple. Or change to Color D for 7 rows.

Row 23: Last DC row in Color C.

Strap:

Step 1: Holding 2 stands of Color C together and using J hook, CH 8. SL ST to 1st CH, forming a circle.

Step 2: CH 3. DC in each CH around (7 DC). Without joining, continue to DC in a continuous loop, forming a tube.

Step 3: Continue DC until tube reaches 60 inches. To finish, SC in next ST, then SL ST to last stitch.

Step 4: Pull long tail through and sew both ends together.

Step 5: To attach the strap to the bag body, lay the bag flat with the seam in the back. Place stitch markers in the center of the front and back of the bag. Fold strap in half and attach each end to the sides of the bag with stitch markers.

Step 6: Sew the handle to the bag using Color D, leaving a gap of 4 DC’s on either side of the mid-point of the front and back of the bag.

Pocket:

Shown are two pocket options:

Option 1 on the left and Option 2 on the right.

Step 1: Using 1 stand of yarn color C and size I/9 hook, CH 17. SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC across (16 SC).

Step 2: CH 1, SC in back loop only across (16 SC).

Step 3: CH 1, turn, SC in the front loop of the previous row you just worked the SC in the back loops.

Shown is the row made in the front loop of the previous row, with the back loop only row in front.

Step 4: SC across. When you reach the end CH1 and SC in the next SC on the other side, completing the loop.

Step 5: SC around the loop, working 1 SC in each of the CH spaces (34 SC).

Step 6, Option 1: Repeat continuous rows of SC for 22 rows total. Skip to step 7.

Step 6, Option 2: Complete one more row of SC. Start to DC, continuing for 7 rows. SC last row.

Step 7: Decrease first 2 stitches, SC across to last 2 stitches, decrease. CH 1, turn. Repeat decrease of first 2 stitches, SC across, and decrease last 2 stitches until the final row of 2 decreases. Chain 7 and SL ST to second SC to create button loop. Weave in end.

Step 8: Sew on a button of your choice.

Pocket Option 1.
Pocket Option 2 (shown in final product photos).

Final measurements:

Width: 12 in./30 cm.

Height (with mat inside): 18 in./46 cm.

Namaste!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The February Sky Scarf

When I decided to start blogging about crochet projects I knew I wanted to create a pattern that I could name after my blog. A signature item, if you will. It’s kind of corny, but after many tests and trials and failures and finally success, I’m proud to call this pattern the February Sky Scarf.

You can purchase a beautifully formatted and ad-free PDF of this pattern on my Etsy! It is 4 pages, full color and includes instructions for both the infinity scarf and cowl versions.

If you’re looking for a pretty scarf that will go with every outfit and keep you warm during the long winter months, you’ve come to the right place! This scarf was made to be loose around the neck, uses any worsted yarn you have in your stash, and has an interesting stitch that looks more complicated than it is.

The pattern uses a two-row repeat and only uses one slightly advanced technique (double crocheting stitches together), but once you get the hang of it you’ll have the scarf done in no time!

The pattern provides two options: a long infinity scarf that you can wrap twice around your neck, or a short cowl that’s a little thicker but will still drape and make a great accessory to your outfit.

The February Sky Scarf

Materials

  • 2 skeins (about 400 yards) of worsted weight yarn- pictured is Caron Simply Soft in Purple for the infinity version and Pagoda for the cowl
  • Size N hook
  • Large Eye Thread Needle

Abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Skip (SK)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Double Crochet (DC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)
  • Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops (three loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook into third stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, then yarn over and pull through remaining four loops. Stitch finished.

NOTES

  • The scarf is made holding two strands of worsted weight yarn together. The easiest way to do this is to pull the yarn from the center of two balls of yarn at the same time. The scarf can be made with bulky weight yarn instead, but it may affect the size and drape.
  • The DC 3 in Row 1 and 3 is different than the 3DCT in Row 2. “DC 3” means to make 3 separate double crochets in the same stitch. See above for 3DCT.
  • The CH 2 at the beginning of Row 2 does not count as a stitch.
  • In Row 2, there are chains after the 2DCT, SC’s and 3DCT’s, but you do not skip a stitch after the chains.
  • Chains do not count toward stitch count in each row.

PATTERN:

Infinity Scarf:

CH 18.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SK. DC 3 in the next ST (see notes). SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC. (17 ST)

Row 2: Turn. CH 2. 2DCT, CH, SC, CH, *3DCT, CH, SC, CH*. Repeat from * to * three times. 2DCT in the last 2 ST’s. (17 ST)

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in 1st ST (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). SK (the CH from the last row). *DC 3 in the SC from the previous row, SK, SC.* Repeat from * to * across. (17 ST)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until scarf reaches desired length (50-60”), being sure to end with a Row 3. Sew ends together with a whip stitch to create an infinity scarf (25-30”).

Cowl:

CH 30.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SK. DC 3 in the next ST (see notes). SK, SC, *SK, DC 3, SK, SC*. Repeat from * to * across. (29 ST)

Row 2: Turn. CH 2. 2DCT, CH, SC, CH, *3DCT, CH, SC, CH*. Repeat from * to * 5 times. 2DCT in the last 2 ST’s. (29 ST)

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in 1st ST (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). SK (the chain from the last row). *DC 3 in the SC from the previous row, SK, SC.* Repeat from * to * across. (29 ST)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 40 rows, being sure to end with a Row 3. Sew ends together with a whip stitch.

I hope you’ll try it and feel empowered when you wear it. For me, it symbolizes going after my goals, even when they’re half-formed and take a lot more work than I originally thought. And beyond any symbolism, I think it’s really pretty and I hope you do too.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Two-Toned Tassel Baby Blanket

I love making blankets for friends and family who are having babies and imagining them wrapping their little bundles in something soft and warm and made with love.

This beginner-friendly blanket is worked up quickly using the moss stitch and super bulky yarn and is a perfect gift for winter babies.

The Two-toned Tassel Baby Blanket uses two contrasting colors and the rows are staggered so the colors fade into each other. This is the perfect blanket for tucking into a stroller on a windy day or laying out on the rug for play time.

The pattern below is for the baby blanket size, 30 by 35 inches. You can purchase a low-cost, ad-free PDF that contains full color diagrams and instructions on how to adjust this pattern for different blanket sizes on my Etsy.

Materials

  • Two colors of super bulky (level 6) yarn. For the baby blanket size (instructions provided for this size), you’ll use about 648 yards total, 324 of each color. I used 4 balls each (8 total) of Lion Brand Hometown USA yarn. Pictured is Springfield Silver and Montpelier Peacock.
  • Size N hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors

Stitches Used

  • Chain (CH)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Skip (SK)

Notes

The finished blanket baby blanket is 35 inches long by 30 inches wide (without the tassels) and starts with 8 rows of Color A. For more size options, check out the PDF pattern on my Etsy.

Baby Blanket Size

Pattern:

  • Starting with Color A, CH 76
  • Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from the hook, *CH, SK, SC*. Repeat * to * until end.
  • Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the 1st ST from the previous row. SC in the next CH space. *CH, SK, SC in the chain space from previous row*. Repeat * to * across, ending with a SC in the last ST.
  • Row 3: CH 1, turn. SC in the 1st ST. *CH, SK, SC*. Repeat from * to * across, ending with a SC in the last ST.
  • Rows 4-8: Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 8 rows.
  • Row 9: Using Color B, CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3. 1 row.
  • Rows 10-16: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 7 rows.
  • Rows 17-18: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd row and Row 2 for even row. 2 rows.
  • Rows 19-24: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 6 rows.
  • Rows 25-27: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 3 rows.
  • Rows 28-32: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 5 rows.
  • Rows 33-36: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 4 rows.
  • Rows 37-40: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 4 rows.
  • Rows 41-45: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 5 rows.
  • Rows 46-48: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 3 rows.
  • Rows 49-54: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 6 rows.
  • Row 55-56: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd row and Row 2 for even row. 2 rows.
  • Rows 57-63: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 7 rows.
  • Row 64: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2. 1 row.
  • Rows 65-72: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 8 rows.
  • Tie off and weave in ends!
Stroller blanket size (26 by 28 in.)

To make the tassels:

You’ll create 12 tassels, 6 of each color, and attach them to the ends of the blanket. Use Color A tassels on the Color B end and vice versa.

Step 1: Cut 12 16″ lengths of each color, 24 total.

Step 2: Using a 9″ book, wrap yarn around 12 times.

Step 3: Slip yarn off book and use a 16″ yarn piece to tie a couple surgeons’ knots in the center of the yarn. Cut the loops on either end of the bundle.

Step 4: Fold the bundle in half so the ends are together. Using another 16″ length, tie a few surgeons’ knots about 1.5″ from the top.

Step 5: Trim the ends so they’re even and repeat 11 more times.

Step 6: Tie the tassels to the edges of the blanket, spaced evenly about 5 inches apart. Use a sewing needle to pull the loose ends through the tops of the tassels so they’re more secure.

I’d love to see the colors you use for your own Two-Toned Tassel blanket! Make sure to tag me on Instagram and share the crochet love.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.


You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!