Simple Summer Market Bag

Hello summer-loving peeps! It’s time for beach days, day trips and farmer’s markets, and this handy bag has you covered! It’s the perfect size to throw your lunch and a book into or some local fruits and veggies, and it’s really cute to boot. Plus if you use recycled yarn like I did you can feel even better about making your own reusable bags! Scroll down for the easy crochet pattern, which includes picture tutorials on how to not have an obvious seam running up your bag.

Simple Summer Market Bag Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Double Crochet (DC)

Materials:

  • 2 balls worsted weight cotton yarn, solid color- Pictured is Lion Brand Re-Up yarn in Grey
  • 1 ball light (level 3) weight cotton yarn, multi-colored- Pictured is Lion Brand Comfy Cotton yarn in Mai Tai
  • Size I/9 5.5 mm crochet hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape or ruler

Special Notes:

  • Each row made in the round (R22 and on) is joined with an invisible slip stitch. I added pictures to show how to do this, but joining with a regular slip stitch is also acceptable (but the join will be visible).
  • After the invisible join, I’ve used the chainless SC and the chainless DC. I’ve included pictures that show how to do this, but regular SC and DC are also acceptable.

Pattern:

Base

Using solid color cotton yarn (yarn A), CH 41.

Row 1: SC into 2nd CH from the hook. SC across (40 SC).

R2: CH 1, turn. SC across (40 SC).

R3-18: Repeat R2 for 18 rows total.

R19: At the end of row 18, CH 1 and rotate rectangle so you’re now working on the left side edge. SC in 1st row space. Skip next space and make 2 SC’s into the next space. Repeat skip and 2 SC’s until you reach the bottom, where your starting CH was begun. (16 SC)

R20: CH 1, rotate rectangle so you’re working along the starting CH. SC in each CH loop (40 SC)

R21: CH 1, repeat R19 along the right edge of the rectangle. When you reach the end, CH 1 and invisible slip stitch into the first SC from R18.

Invisible Slip Stitch:

Remove hook from working loop and insert it into the top of the SC, back to front.
Hook loop and pull through the stitch, front to back.
Invisible slip stitch is complete.

Chainless Single Crochet:

Pull up the loop a little higher than a SC.
Insert hook into same stitch you made your invisible slip stitch.
Yarn over and pull up a loop, like a normal SC. Finish SC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

R22: Chainless SC into 1st SC. Place a stitch marker into this SC. SC around the rectangle, making 1 SC in the corner CH’s. Join to 1st chainless SC.

R23-24: Repeat R22 twice, 3 rows total. Do not join at the end of R24.

Body

R25: Finish last SC with Yarn B (Comfy Cotton yarn). Join to the chainless SC from R24. Chainless DC into the SC (see photos).

Chainless Double Crochet:

Join Yarn B in last SC of previous row.
Invisible slip stitch.
Pull up loop a little higher than a normal DC.
Keeping one finger firmly holding the first loop in place on your hook, wrap the hook around the yarn so you have two “loops” on your hook.
Insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, being careful to keep the other two loops in place on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through first two loops, like a normal DC.
Yarn over again and pull through last two loops, completing the chainless DC. Place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

Place a stitch marker into the top of the chainless DC. *CH 1, skip 1, DC into next SC*. Repeat from * to * around the base, ending with a CH 1 before joining into 1st DC.

R26: Make a chainless DC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops (do this for all rows). *CH 1, DC into the top of next DC*. Repeat from * to * around the base. (59 DC) Join to 1st chainless DC.

R27-R44: Repeat R25 for 20 DC rows total. Do not join at the end of R44.

R45: Join Yarn A and slip stitch into 1st chainless DC from R44. Chainless SC and SC around in each DC and CH space. Join.

Strap

Lay bag body flat and use a ruler or measuring tape to find the mid-point. Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch of the front and back of the bag. Count 10 SC’s on each side of the midpoint and place a stitch marker in each spot. Remove the midpoint stitch markers. You’ll have 4 stitch markers in place, two on each side, with 20 SC’s in between.

R46: Chainless SC, then SC until you reach the first stitch marker. CH 50. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around to next stitch marker on the back of the bag. CH 50 again. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around until you reach the chainless SC. Join.

R47-R50: SC around all SC’s and the CH 50’s, joining each round, for 4 rows total. Tie off after joining the last row and weave in ends.

Final measurements:

Base: 12 x 5.5 in.

Body: 15 x 15 in.

Strap: 55 in.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The February Sky Scarf

When I decided to start blogging about crochet projects I knew I wanted to create a pattern that I could name after my blog. A signature item, if you will. It’s kind of corny, but after many tests and trials and failures and finally success, I’m proud to call this pattern the February Sky Scarf.

I’ve always been a scarf person and I made this one exactly how I like my scarves- long enough to wrap twice around my neck without being tight, a loose fabric that drapes nicely, and an interesting stitch that looks more complicated than it is.

The pattern uses a two-row repeat and only uses one slightly advanced technique (double crocheting stitches together), but once you get the hang of it you’ll have the scarf done in no time.

I made the scarf using two different colors of Caron Simply Soft and the ombre yarn made a really cool gently striped effect.

Materials

  • 2 skeins of Caron Simply Soft- (the solid purple is ‘Purple’ and the striped is ‘Grape Purple Ombre’)
  • Size N hook
  • Large Eye Thread Needle

Stitches:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Double Crochet (DC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)
  • Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops (three loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook into third stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, then yarn over and pull through remaining four loops. Stitch finished.

PATTERN

Holding two strands of yarn together (if using Caron Simply Soft or similar worsted weight yarn), chain 18.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from hook. *Skip a stitch. Make 3 DC’s (not 3DCT, 3 separate DC’s) in the same stitch. Skip one. SC.* Repeat from * to * across, ending in a SC.

Row 2: Turn. CH 2 (does not count as a stitch). In the 1st 2 stitches, 2DCT. *CH 1. SC in the next stitch (middle DC from previous row). CH 1, do not skip a stitch, and 3DCT in the next 3 stitches.* Repeat from * to * twice more. CH 1, SC, CH 1, end with 2DCT in the last 2 stitches.

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in the first stitch (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). *Skip a stitch (the chain from the last row) and make 3 DC’s in the next stitch (the SC from the previous row). Skip a stitch (CH from last row), and SC (in the top of the 3DCT)*. Repeat from * to * across, ending with a SC in the last stitch.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until scarf reaches desired length. My finished scarf was 60 inches long before I sewed the ends together. You can leave it open or create an infinity scarf, which is 30 inches long and wraps around the neck twice. Adjust the sizing to however fits you best!

I hope you’ll try it and feel empowered when you wear it. For me, it symbolizes going after my goals, even when they’re half-formed and take a lot more work than I originally thought. And beyond any symbolism, I think it’s really pretty and I hope you do too.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Move Mountains Baby Blanket

I got a text from one of my good friends showing me the beautiful mountain mural she’d put up in the nursery for the baby boy she’s expecting in a couple months. She lives far from me and I knew I wanted to send her a baby care package that included a crochet blanket using the colors in the mural. After browsing through some baby blanket patterns on Pinterest I had an idea- what if I not only incorporated the colors of the mural into the blanket, but the design as well? And so, the Move Mountains baby blanket was born!

“Kid, you’ll move mountains!”- Dr. Seuss
This is the picture she sent me of the nursery! Mountain decal purchased from PearlWall’s Etsy shop.

I had never made a blanket like this before and knew I’d need a visual to keep track of when I should be adding my colors. I used the website Stitch Fiddle to design a template for my blanket, and after a lot of trial and error this was what I came up with:

The blanket is worked entirely in single crochet and is 60 stitches across by 70 rows tall. The finished blanket came out to 36 inches by 32 inches using super bulky yarn and a size P hook.

The trickiest part of the blanket is knowing how to do the color changes correctly. Once you count your stitches and know where you’re supposed to be starting a new color you begin your single crochet in the stitch before the first stitch of the new color, and instead of finishing the single crochet with the first color you pull in the new color to finish it. Then you single crochet with the new color in the next stitch, which is your first stitch of the new color.

Here I was finishing with the light gray yarn and before completing my SC I would pull up the navy blue yarn to finish it and then continue on with the blue yarn, leaving the light gray strand until I came back to it in the next row.

By increasing or decreasing one stitch of a color, depending on where you are in the pattern, your colors will move up and down diagonally and create the mountain slopes.

If you want to cut back on the number of ends you need to weave in, like I always try to do, you’ll be working with multiple balls of yarn at once, picking them up and dropping them as you move across the rows.

Stitch abbreviations:

  • SC = single crochet
  • CH = chain

Materials: 

3 skeins each of-

Lion Brand Hometown USA Yarn – San Diego Navy

.

Lion Brand Hometown USA Yarn Dallas Grey

.

Lion Brand Yarn Hometown USA Yarn Springfield Silver

.

Crochet Hook, Size P-15, 10mm

.

Large-Eye Sewing Needle

_________

Pattern:

Chain 61

Row 1: Using Color A (dark gray), SC in the 2nd stitch from the hook and continue across. 60 SC.

R2-10: CH 1 (does not count as SC), turn. SC across.

R11:  CH 1, turn. SC across until there are two stitches from the end. Join Color B (navy blue) in SC 59 and do one SC of Color B in SC 60.

R12:  CH 1, turn. SC with Color B in first stitch. Start the SC in the second stitch and pick up Color A yarn to finish. SC across with Color A.

R13:  CH 1, turn. SC with Color A across until the 4th stitch from the end (SC 57). Pick up Color B and SC to end.

R14:  CH 1, turn. SC with Color B for three stitches. Start 4th SC and join Color A. SC across with Color A for 18 stitches. Join a second skein of Color B for one SC. Don’t finish the SC of Color B, but add a second skein of Color A and SC across to the second to last stitch. Join the 3rd skein of Color B and SC the last stitch.

R15-23:  CH 1, turn. Continue to SC with Colors A and B, increasing Color B and decreasing Color A one SC on each side of the mountain peaks with each row.

R24:  CH 1, turn. SC across, dropping 2nd Color B skein and continuing with 1st skein until Color A change.

R25-31:  CH 1, turn. Continue decreasing Color A.

R32-36:  CH 1, turn. SC across with Color B.

R37:  CH 1, turn. SC across with Color B for 15 stitches. Join with Color C (light gray) for one SC, join 2nd ball of Color B, SC across to SC 49, join 2nd skein of Color C, SC one and join 3rd skein of Color B. SC with Color B until second to last stitch, join 3rd skein of Color C, SC one.

R38-53:  CH 1, turn. SC across, decreasing Color B by one on each side of the mountain peaks until they all reach their tops.

R54-70:  CH 1, turn. SC across with Color C.

Note: Be sure to consult the stitch chart for help with color changes and row numbers!

I’ll be mailing the blanket this week, along with a onesie I found with little mountains on it (gotta love a theme!). I love how this blanket came out and I can’t wait to see pictures of it in the nursery and especially with her little boy!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

***This post contains affiliate links. Thanks for your support!

Two-Toned Tassel Baby Blanket

I love making blankets for friends and family who are having babies and imagining them wrapping their little bundles in something soft and warm and made with love.

This beginner-friendly blanket is worked up quickly using the moss stitch and super bulky yarn and is a perfect gift for winter babies.

The Two-toned Tassel Baby Blanket uses two contrasting colors and the rows are staggered so the colors fade into each other. This is the perfect blanket for tucking into a stroller on a windy day or laying out on the rug for play time.

Materials

  • 6 skeins, 3 of each color, of super bulky (level 6) yarn. I used Lion Brand Yarn’s Hometown USA in Springfield Silver and Montpelier Peacock
  • Size P hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Piece of cardboard, 4×4 inches
  • Scissors

Stitches Used

  • Chain (CH)
  • Single Crochet (SC)

Notes

The finished blanket is 30 inches by 30 inches (without the tassels). To achieve the fading effect, the rows of each color increase/decrease evenly. For the baby blanket size, my biggest block of each color at the end of the blanket has 7 rows. To increase the size of the blanket, increase the starting chain any even number amount and follow the diagram below to increase the overall number of rows of each color.

Pattern

  • Starting with Color A, CH 56
  • Row 1: SC in second stitch from the hook, CH 1, skip next stitch, SC in the next stitch, CH1, and repeat across, ending with a SC in the last stitch.
  • Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. SC in the chain spaces from previous row with chains in between (“moss stitch”). End with a SC in the last stitch.
  • Rows 3-7: Repeat Row 2.7 rows of Color A.
  • Row 8: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 1 row.
  • Rows 9-14: Join with Color A, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 6 rows.
  • Rows 15-16: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 2 rows.
  • Rows 17-21: Join with Color A, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 5 rows.
  • Rows 22-24: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 3 rows.
  • Rows 25-28: Join with Color A, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 4 rows.
  • Rows 29-32: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 4 rows.
  • Rows 33-35: Join with Color A, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 3 rows.
  • Rows 36-40: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 5 rows.
  • Rows 41-42: Join with Color A, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 2 rows.
  • Rows 43-48: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 6 rows.
  • Row 49: Join with Color A, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 1 row.
  • Rows 50-56: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 7 rows. Tie off and weave in ends!

To make the tassels:

Cut a piece of cardboard to about 4 inches square. I used an old snack box for mine.

Wrap the yarn around the cardboard about 25 times. Using a second piece of yarn, tie off the top of the bundle and slide off the cardboard. Tie it tightly, leaving the two ends about 6 inches long to tie onto the blanket. Cut through the loops at the other end.

Using a third piece of yarn about 6 inches long, tie the middle of the bundle to create the tassel shape.

Trim the bottom of the tassel so the ends are even. Make 6 tassels from Color A and Color B, 12 total. Ready to attach!

For my blanket, I started 4 inches from one side of the top and attached a tassel every 4 inches across, using the contrasting color tassels for each side. Use a tapestry needle to pull the ties back through the tassels to make them more secure.

That’s it! I hope you enjoy making this blanket for a new baby in your life. Follow me on Instagram for more crochet goodness. ~