The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt

The holiday season can be hectic (and expensive), so I’m bringing you a quick and easy project that you can whip up in one night when you’re taking a break from online shopping and holiday parties. If you have a small tabletop tree that’s looking a little under-dressed then this is the pattern for you!

This tree skirt is named after the baubles that adorn the tree, and the bobbles that amp up the texture of this simple and festive Christmas decor item. This skirt will fit a tree between 2 and 4 feet tall (mine was 3!).

I wanted a quick and squishy skirt so I reached for super bulky level 6 yarn. Pictured here is Bernat Softee Chunky in the colors Grey Ragg and Wine in the photos below. Any other super bulky yarn would work great, like Lion Brand Wool Ease or Hometown USA. You’ll also need a nice big size P crochet hook.

Starting this pattern is very similar to making any circular crochet project, except you’re not joining in the round so you can slip the skirt around the base of the tree.

The bobbles are added every 4 rows and most rows are just single crochets with increases every so often, so this pattern is very beginner friendly!

After a few rounds you can see how the circle is coming together. If you only have 1 ball of yarn you can get through row 15, which will make a smaller skirt best for a 2 foot tree. You’ll need 1.5 balls of yarn, or about 160 yards, to make the full 19 inch skirt.

Now that I’ve talked you through it a bit, let’s get to the pattern! Be sure to read the notes so you can easily follow the annotations in the pattern and breeze through this project.

The Mini Bauble Christmas Tree Skirt Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Stitch (ST)

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

Materials:

-About 160 yards of Super Bulky (level 6) yarn

-Size P-15 (12 mm) crochet hook

Final measurements:

19 in./48 cm. in diameter

Special Stitch:

Bobble: Yarn over (YO), insert hook into stitch, YO and pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, pull through remaining 4 loops on hook.

Notes:

  • When an instruction indicates a number after a stitch (ex. SC 2), it means to make a single crochet in the next two stitches. When an instruction has a number before the stitch (ex. 2SC), it means to make two single crochets into one stitch space.
  • The annotation “1SC+Bobble” means you make one single crochet and one bobble stitch in the same space (making an increase).

Pattern:

Chain 7.

Row 1: Starting from the 2nd CH from the hook, SC across. (6 STS)

Row 2: CH 1, turn. 2SC in each ST across. (12 STS)

R3: CH 1, turn. *SC, 2SC*, repeat across. (18 STS)

R4: CH 1, turn. SC 1. In the next stitch, 1SC+Bobble. *SC 2, 1SC+Bobble*.  Repeat across, ending with SC. (24 STS, 6 Bobbles)

R5: CH 1, turn. *SC 3, 2SC*. Repeat across. (30 STS)

R6: CH 1, turn. SC 2, *2SC, SC 4*, repeat across. End with SC 2. (36 STS)

R7: CH 1, turn. *SC 5, 2SC*, repeat across. (42 STS)

R8: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*. Repeat across to last 3 STS, SC 1, Bobble, SC 1. (48 STS, 12 Bobbles)

R9: CH 1, turn. *SC 7, 2SC*, repeat across. (54 STS)

R10: CH 1, turn. SC 4, *2SC, SC 8*, repeat across. End with SC 4. (60 STS)

R11: CH 1, turn. *SC 9, 2SC*, repeat across. (66 STS)

R12: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 2, *1SC+ Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 2*. Repeat to last 5 stitches. SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (72 STS, 18 Bobbles)

R13: CH 1, turn. *SC 11, 2SC*, repeat across. (78 STS)

R14: CH 1, turn. SC 6, *2SC, SC 12*, repeat across. End with SC 6. (84 STS)

R15: CH 1, turn. *SC 13, 2SC*, repeat across. (90 STS)

R16: CH 1, turn. SC 2, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC, *SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, 2SC*, repeat to last 7 stitches, SC 1, Bobble, SC 3, Bobble, SC 1. (96 STS, 24 Bobbles)

R17: CH 1, turn. *SC 15, 2SC*, repeat across. (102 STS)

R18: CH 1, turn. SC 8, *2SC, SC 16*, repeat across. End with SC 8. (108 STS)

R19: CH 1, turn. *SC 17, 2SC*, repeat across. (114 STS)

If you make your own mini bauble tree skirt please tag me on Instagram because I love seeing your recreations and I bet there could be some amazing tree skirts made with different yarns!

Thanks for reading and have a lovely holiday season!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Simple Summer Market Bag

Hello summer-loving peeps! It’s time for beach days, day trips and farmer’s markets, and this handy bag has you covered! It’s the perfect size to throw your lunch and a book into or some local fruits and veggies, and it’s really cute to boot. Plus if you use recycled yarn like I did you can feel even better about making your own reusable bags! Scroll down for the easy crochet pattern, which includes picture tutorials on how to not have an obvious seam running up your bag.

Simple Summer Market Bag Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Double Crochet (DC)

Materials:

  • 2 balls worsted weight cotton yarn, solid color- Pictured is Lion Brand Re-Up yarn in Grey
  • 1 ball light (level 3) weight cotton yarn, multi-colored- Pictured is Lion Brand Comfy Cotton yarn in Mai Tai
  • Size I/9 5.5 mm crochet hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape or ruler

Special Notes:

  • Each row made in the round (R22 and on) is joined with an invisible slip stitch. I added pictures to show how to do this, but joining with a regular slip stitch is also acceptable (but the join will be visible).
  • After the invisible join, I’ve used the chainless SC and the chainless DC. I’ve included pictures that show how to do this, but regular SC and DC are also acceptable.

Pattern:

Base

Using solid color cotton yarn (yarn A), CH 41.

Row 1: SC into 2nd CH from the hook. SC across (40 SC).

R2: CH 1, turn. SC across (40 SC).

R3-18: Repeat R2 for 18 rows total.

R19: At the end of row 18, CH 1 and rotate rectangle so you’re now working on the left side edge. SC in 1st row space. Skip next space and make 2 SC’s into the next space. Repeat skip and 2 SC’s until you reach the bottom, where your starting CH was begun. (16 SC)

R20: CH 1, rotate rectangle so you’re working along the starting CH. SC in each CH loop (40 SC)

R21: CH 1, repeat R19 along the right edge of the rectangle. When you reach the end, CH 1 and invisible slip stitch into the first SC from R18.

Invisible Slip Stitch:

Remove hook from working loop and insert it into the top of the SC, back to front.
Hook loop and pull through the stitch, front to back.
Invisible slip stitch is complete.

Chainless Single Crochet:

Pull up the loop a little higher than a SC.
Insert hook into same stitch you made your invisible slip stitch.
Yarn over and pull up a loop, like a normal SC. Finish SC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

R22: Chainless SC into 1st SC. Place a stitch marker into this SC. SC around the rectangle, making 1 SC in the corner CH’s. Join to 1st chainless SC.

R23-24: Repeat R22 twice, 3 rows total. Do not join at the end of R24.

Body

R25: Finish last SC with Yarn B (Comfy Cotton yarn). Join to the chainless SC from R24. Chainless DC into the SC (see photos).

Chainless Double Crochet:

Join Yarn B in last SC of previous row.
Invisible slip stitch.
Pull up loop a little higher than a normal DC.
Keeping one finger firmly holding the first loop in place on your hook, wrap the hook around the yarn so you have two “loops” on your hook.
Insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, being careful to keep the other two loops in place on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through first two loops, like a normal DC.
Yarn over again and pull through last two loops, completing the chainless DC. Place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

Place a stitch marker into the top of the chainless DC. *CH 1, skip 1, DC into next SC*. Repeat from * to * around the base, ending with a CH 1 before joining into 1st DC.

R26: Make a chainless DC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops (do this for all rows). *CH 1, DC into the top of next DC*. Repeat from * to * around the base. (59 DC) Join to 1st chainless DC.

R27-R44: Repeat R25 for 20 DC rows total. Do not join at the end of R44.

R45: Join Yarn A and slip stitch into 1st chainless DC from R44. Chainless SC and SC around in each DC and CH space. Join.

Strap

Lay bag body flat and use a ruler or measuring tape to find the mid-point. Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch of the front and back of the bag. Count 10 SC’s on each side of the midpoint and place a stitch marker in each spot. Remove the midpoint stitch markers. You’ll have 4 stitch markers in place, two on each side, with 20 SC’s in between.

R46: Chainless SC, then SC until you reach the first stitch marker. CH 50. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around to next stitch marker on the back of the bag. CH 50 again. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around until you reach the chainless SC. Join.

R47-R50: SC around all SC’s and the CH 50’s, joining each round, for 4 rows total. Tie off after joining the last row and weave in ends.

Final measurements:

Base: 12 x 5.5 in.

Body: 15 x 15 in.

Strap: 55 in.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Crochet Plant Hanger

Exciting news!! Many of my non-crocheter friends have asked if I could make one of my plant hangers for them, and I’m happy to say I can finally offer my plant hangers as custom made-to-order items on my Etsy! Check out the different color options and choose the perfect new home for your plant babies!

Custom Handmade Plant Hangers

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I live in a small apartment and my love for plants has meant that 90% of the available surfaces are covered in lovely green things. Unfortunately I need that other 10% to sleep and eat on, so I designed this cute little plant hanger so I can make use of my walls and keep this plant addiction going.

I’ve included step by step pictures along with the instructions to help you make your own little plant hanger. If you make one please be sure to tag me on Instragram (februaryskydesigns)!

Materials:

  • Bernat Home Dec Yarn, or similar Bulky Level 5 yarn made of cotton/acrylic and nylon.
  • size N/10 crochet hook
  • large eye sewing needle
  • stitch markers
  • 2.5 inch wooden ring (one per hanger)
  • 1.5 inch wooden ring (one per hanger)
  • large wooden beads (optional)

Stitch abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Skip (SK)
  • Slip Stitch (SL ST)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Half Double Crochet (HDC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Final measurements:

Width (before hanging): 8”

Height (before hanging): 10”

Notes:

-Pattern calls for holding two strands of Bernat Home Dec yarn (or similar) together and using them as one strand as you crochet. This yarn is a Bulky weight (5) yarn. Any yarn may be used for this pattern, but the size and structure might be affected.

-There is no CH before or after each 2DCT, starting in Round 3.

Pattern:

Round 1: CH 20. Work 3 SC onto 2.5” wooden ring.

Continue round with 19 more CH’s. SL ST into first CH to create a circle as you’ll be working in the round for this pattern.

Round 2: CH 2 (counts as HDC). SK one CH, HDC into next CH. CH, SK, HDC until you reach the 3 SC’s on the ring. Work 1 HDC into each SC.

Continue to CH, SK, and HDC around until you reach the end of Round 1 (the first CH 2).

Round 3: HDC into the space after the CH 2. Continue to CH and HDC into the CH spaces from the previous round until you reach the 3 HDC’s at the ring.

Without making a CH, 2DCT in the second 2 HDC’s you made on the ring. Place a stitch marker in the 2DCT if you need help finding it for the next round.

2DCT made in 2nd 2 HDC’s.

Do not CH after 2DCT. HDC in next CH space. CH, then continue HDC + CH around in the CH spaces.

HDC made in CH space next to completed 2DCT.

Round 4: Continue HDC + CH in the CH spaces of the previous round. When you reach the 2DCT from the previous row, do not CH and make a 2DCT in the top of the 2DCT and in the HDC next to it. Do not CH and make a HDC in the very next CH space. Continue to CH and HDC in the CH spaces around.

2DCT from previous row and the HDC (with stitch marker) where you’ll make your 2DCT.
Finished 2DCT shown, with a stitch marker to show the CH space where you make your next HDC.
HDC completed, with stitch marker used to mark the 2DCT, which is where you start your 2DCT of each round.

Rounds 5 and 6: Repeat round 4, making your 2DCT in the 2DCT from the previous row and the HDC next to it.

Stitch marker in the 2DCT.

Round 7: Continue HDC + CH in the CH spaces until you reach the 2DCT from Round 6. Complete 2DCT as normal.

Finished 2DCT of Round 7.

Instead of making your next HDC after the 2DCT, continue to make 2DCT stitches in the CH spaces around the circle. Do not CH in between the 2DCT stitches.

Shown is 2nd 2DCT stitch made in the next 2 CH spaces after the 1st 2DCT.

Continue making 2DCT in the CH spaces. SL ST into the top of the 1st 2DCT to complete the round.

Completed round of 2DCT.

Bring a long tail through the SL ST and whip stitch around the 2DCT’s.

Pull the tail tight to close the circle. Tie off the tail, but don’t cut it off if you plan on adding a tassel.

The hard part’s over! Now you’ll want to weave in your starting tail, making sure to pull it across to make an even front edge.

It’s time to make the tassel! Using one strand of your yarn, make 11 loops about 10 inches long.

Cut the loops at the ends of the strands. Grab your smaller wooden ring, a wooden bead and your sewing needle. Taking another strand of yarn, bring one end through the bead, up through the ring, and back through the bead again. Tie the ring and bead to the tassel strands in the middle.

Using another strand of yarn, tie a knot about an inch under the top of the bunch. Weave the ends of this strand back into the middle of the bunch to hide the knot a little more. Then trim the bottom of the tassel to make a neat bottom.

Using the tail you left from the end of the planter base, take another bead and bring the yarn through it once, through the wooden ring, and then back up through the bead again.

Pull tight and weave in the end inside the plant hanger. You did it! You’re finished!

Use a 3×4 inch or 4×4 inch round plant pot without holes as the base of the planter. Add a plastic insert with holes and a small plant and sit back and enjoy!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The February Sky Scarf

When I decided to start blogging about crochet projects I knew I wanted to create a pattern that I could name after my blog. A signature item, if you will. It’s kind of corny, but after many tests and trials and failures and finally success, I’m proud to call this pattern the February Sky Scarf.

You can purchase a beautifully formatted and ad-free PDF of this pattern on my Etsy! It is 4 pages, full color and includes instructions for both the infinity scarf and cowl versions.

If you’re looking for a pretty scarf that will go with every outfit and keep you warm during the long winter months, you’ve come to the right place! This scarf was made to be loose around the neck, uses any worsted yarn you have in your stash, and has an interesting stitch that looks more complicated than it is.

The pattern uses a two-row repeat and only uses one slightly advanced technique (double crocheting stitches together), but once you get the hang of it you’ll have the scarf done in no time!

The pattern provides two options: a long infinity scarf that you can wrap twice around your neck, or a short cowl that’s a little thicker but will still drape and make a great accessory to your outfit.

The February Sky Scarf

Materials

  • 2 skeins (about 400 yards) of worsted weight yarn- pictured is Caron Simply Soft in Purple for the infinity version and Pagoda for the cowl
  • Size N hook
  • Large Eye Thread Needle

Abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Skip (SK)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Double Crochet (DC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)
  • Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops (three loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook into third stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, then yarn over and pull through remaining four loops. Stitch finished.

NOTES

  • The scarf is made holding two strands of worsted weight yarn together. The easiest way to do this is to pull the yarn from the center of two balls of yarn at the same time. The scarf can be made with bulky weight yarn instead, but it may affect the size and drape.
  • The DC 3 in Row 1 and 3 is different than the 3DCT in Row 2. “DC 3” means to make 3 separate double crochets in the same stitch. See above for 3DCT.
  • The CH 2 at the beginning of Row 2 does not count as a stitch.
  • In Row 2, there are chains after the 2DCT, SC’s and 3DCT’s, but you do not skip a stitch after the chains.
  • Chains do not count toward stitch count in each row.

PATTERN:

Infinity Scarf:

CH 18.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SK. DC 3 in the next ST (see notes). SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC, SK, DC 3, SK, SC. (17 ST)

Row 2: Turn. CH 2. 2DCT, CH, SC, CH, *3DCT, CH, SC, CH*. Repeat from * to * three times. 2DCT in the last 2 ST’s. (17 ST)

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in 1st ST (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). SK (the CH from the last row). *DC 3 in the SC from the previous row, SK, SC.* Repeat from * to * across. (17 ST)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until scarf reaches desired length (50-60”), being sure to end with a Row 3. Sew ends together with a whip stitch to create an infinity scarf (25-30”).

Cowl:

CH 30.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from the hook. SK. DC 3 in the next ST (see notes). SK, SC, *SK, DC 3, SK, SC*. Repeat from * to * across. (29 ST)

Row 2: Turn. CH 2. 2DCT, CH, SC, CH, *3DCT, CH, SC, CH*. Repeat from * to * 5 times. 2DCT in the last 2 ST’s. (29 ST)

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in 1st ST (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). SK (the chain from the last row). *DC 3 in the SC from the previous row, SK, SC.* Repeat from * to * across. (29 ST)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 40 rows, being sure to end with a Row 3. Sew ends together with a whip stitch.

I hope you’ll try it and feel empowered when you wear it. For me, it symbolizes going after my goals, even when they’re half-formed and take a lot more work than I originally thought. And beyond any symbolism, I think it’s really pretty and I hope you do too.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Two-Toned Tassel Baby Blanket

I love making blankets for friends and family who are having babies and imagining them wrapping their little bundles in something soft and warm and made with love.

This beginner-friendly blanket is worked up quickly using the moss stitch and super bulky yarn and is a perfect gift for winter babies.

The Two-toned Tassel Baby Blanket uses two contrasting colors and the rows are staggered so the colors fade into each other. This is the perfect blanket for tucking into a stroller on a windy day or laying out on the rug for play time.

The pattern below is for the baby blanket size, 30 by 35 inches. You can purchase a low-cost, ad-free PDF that contains full color diagrams and instructions on how to adjust this pattern for different blanket sizes on my Etsy.

Materials

  • Two colors of super bulky (level 6) yarn. For the baby blanket size (instructions provided for this size), you’ll use about 648 yards total, 324 of each color. I used 4 balls each (8 total) of Lion Brand Hometown USA yarn. Pictured is Springfield Silver and Montpelier Peacock.
  • Size N hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors

Stitches Used

  • Chain (CH)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Skip (SK)

Notes

The finished blanket baby blanket is 35 inches long by 30 inches wide (without the tassels) and starts with 8 rows of Color A. For more size options, check out the PDF pattern on my Etsy.

Baby Blanket Size

Pattern:

  • Starting with Color A, CH 76
  • Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from the hook, *CH, SK, SC*. Repeat * to * until end.
  • Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the 1st ST from the previous row. SC in the next CH space. *CH, SK, SC in the chain space from previous row*. Repeat * to * across, ending with a SC in the last ST.
  • Row 3: CH 1, turn. SC in the 1st ST. *CH, SK, SC*. Repeat from * to * across, ending with a SC in the last ST.
  • Rows 4-8: Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 8 rows.
  • Row 9: Using Color B, CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3. 1 row.
  • Rows 10-16: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 7 rows.
  • Rows 17-18: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd row and Row 2 for even row. 2 rows.
  • Rows 19-24: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 6 rows.
  • Rows 25-27: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 3 rows.
  • Rows 28-32: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 5 rows.
  • Rows 33-36: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 4 rows.
  • Rows 37-40: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 4 rows.
  • Rows 41-45: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 5 rows.
  • Rows 46-48: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2 for even rows and Row 3 for odd rows. 3 rows.
  • Rows 49-54: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 6 rows.
  • Row 55-56: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd row and Row 2 for even row. 2 rows.
  • Rows 57-63: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 7 rows.
  • Row 64: Color A. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 2. 1 row.
  • Rows 65-72: Color B. CH 1 and turn. Repeat Row 3 for odd rows and Row 2 for even rows. 8 rows.
  • Tie off and weave in ends!
Stroller blanket size (26 by 28 in.)

To make the tassels:

You’ll create 12 tassels, 6 of each color, and attach them to the ends of the blanket. Use Color A tassels on the Color B end and vice versa.

Step 1: Cut 12 16″ lengths of each color, 24 total.

Step 2: Using a 9″ book, wrap yarn around 12 times.

Step 3: Slip yarn off book and use a 16″ yarn piece to tie a couple surgeons’ knots in the center of the yarn. Cut the loops on either end of the bundle.

Step 4: Fold the bundle in half so the ends are together. Using another 16″ length, tie a few surgeons’ knots about 1.5″ from the top.

Step 5: Trim the ends so they’re even and repeat 11 more times.

Step 6: Tie the tassels to the edges of the blanket, spaced evenly about 5 inches apart. Use a sewing needle to pull the loose ends through the tops of the tassels so they’re more secure.

I’d love to see the colors you use for your own Two-Toned Tassel blanket! Make sure to tag me on Instagram and share the crochet love.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.


You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

DIY Hanging Planter

IMG_1558

I hope one of your New Year resolutions was to do more crafting in 2014, since everyone needs more beautiful things in their lives! I decided to liven up my work space during the dull days of January by making this cute and easy hanging planter.

Here’s what you’ll need:

-3 mini terracotta pots (mine are 2 inches tall)

-twine or hemp, multicolored or white

-paint colors of your choice

-felt pom poms (could also use beads)

-glue gun

IMG_4730

Start by painting your pots. I chose a light gray color and I needed to do two coats.

IMG_4734

Let the pots dry. Since they are hanging pots you will see the bottoms, but not the insides, so I rigged up a little drying station with pens and a mug.

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Once the pots are dry you can decorate them like I did by painting the rims in different bright colors, or you could do a ‘dipped’ effect by painting the bottom of the pots a different color. Be creative!

IMG_4737

Measure 4 pieces of plain or colored twine/hemp about 50 inches per piece (if using different sized pots than 2 inches adjust accordingly). This will give you enough twine to tie the top loop and to add the pom poms on the ends.

IMG_4738

Holding all four pieces together, make your first knot about 6 inches from the bottom of the twine. This is where your first pot will rest. Tie three more knots, each 8 inches apart. You’ll have four knots and plenty of leftover twine at the top to decide how long you want your pots to hang and where you should make your final loop. My loop stars around 8 inches above my fourth knot. Tie a large loop and knot it several times, cutting off the excess.

This step is optional, but you can wrap the knots you made with colored twine. This reinforces the knots and adds a little more color.

IMG_4739

Next, tie knots in each piece of twine hanging from the bottom. Hot glue your pom poms or beads to the ends of twine, staggering them a bit so they hang nicely.

IMG_4740

Hang your twine from the loop on a hook or screw and carefully place each pot above a knot, moving the four pieces of twine so they support the pot evenly. That’s it!

Hanging Planter Collage

I need to get some succulents to put in these ASAP. Enjoy your crafty January!

Rustic Winter Engagement Party

Rachel and Hugh's Engagement Party Collage

Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life -Confucius (smart guy)

I feel this is never more true for me than when I’m working on decorations for a loved one. One of my best friends since we were 13 recently got engaged to her beau and her mom wanted to throw her an engagement party right after Christmas while friends and family were in town for the holidays. This made a very busy month for me between Christmas shopping and working on decorations, but I loved every minute of it.

I wanted a winter theme that would tie in the Christmas decorations that would still be around the house for the party. I went with a winter woodland theme with birch trees and pops of red and turquoise.

These beautiful invitations were ordered from Oh Happiness Cards on Etsy. Everyone loved the back detail!

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I purchased these awesome birch tree straws for the mimosas at the party, simply displayed in mason jars with ribbon.

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Speaking of mason jars, I also used them as accents around the house filled with cranberries and floating candles.

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Along with mimosas, we also served coffee and tea, so I made custom hot cup sleeve covers with a birch tree stamp and the couple’s initials.

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I love the way covering cups and bottles with printed paper makes them that much more special. I created little custom labels for the champagne bottles that made them really stand out.

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I decorated the drink table with a painted burlap banner.

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And I added a little festivity to the doorway with simple paper cones strung between the dining room and living room

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Something I don’t usually tackle for parties (except those I host) is desserts. For this party I actually made two desserts- a cake and sugar cookies.

First the cake: chocolate with vanilla icing, decorated with cranberries and rosemary

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With a custom burlap cake topper!

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The cookies are of Vermont, with a little sprinkle heart on Burlington where Rachel and Hugh met and fell in love.

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(These gave me a very hard time. I wished I could teleport Clara to help me!)

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Thankfully, the cake went easy on me.

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Love the birch round I found at Michaels to use as a cake stand!

Lastly, I painted a sign for the couple that sums up the feeling going into the new year and celebrating their lives together.

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Love you guys!

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Oh, Christmas Tree

Like many people, the smell of a real Christmas tree is one of my all-time favorites. Maybe it’s the memories of childhood associated with it, but it never fails to bring a smile to my face.

This year, however, I decided to go an untraditional route. I’d like to share with you my Christmas ‘tree’-

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This, my friends, is a branch I found laying on the ground in the park near my house. I can only imagine what people thought when they saw me dragging it back to my apartment (in the snow, mind you). But once it was dried out and hung up it was ready to be trimmed with special ornaments and presents underneath.

I have to admit, I’m smitten with it.

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Did I mention it lights up?!

I used little fairy lights that attach to a battery pack (hidden behind the ornament on the far left). When it’s lit up and a spruce-scented candle is burning, it definitely feels like Christmas around here.

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DIY Holiday Wreath!

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My idea of the perfect wreath is one that is beautiful and is neutral enough to be hung throughout the holidays and well into the cold, holidayless months of winter. Of course, the wreath could be tweaked to be more holiday-specific if that suits your fancy!

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I had a few materials lying around (as usual), so I used the leaves and feathers left over from my dreamcatcher, and I gave the berries from the baby shower a little makeover using white paint and gold glitter.

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I made the bow from some burlap ribbon, but you could also buy one while you’re at the store gathering other supplies (although I think it’s usually cheaper to make your own, and it’s not that difficult if you cheat and use glue to make the ribbon look perfect!).

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The flowers I made are a little strange since they are made out of pistachio shells, but clearly I am not the only person who looks at a pile of shells and thinks they should be refurbished into craft supplies.

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Alright, time to start gluing! I knew I wanted my wreath to be free form and asymmetrical, but to give myself a little guidance I started by placing the berries around the wreath and attaching the bow.

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Pause to yell and curse when I burn my finger on the glue gun. Crafting is dangerous business.

And we’re back. I glued the largest items first, eying where they looked best to me. No rhyme or reason, just going with the flow.

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Here you can see the mess I was making of my work area. Crafting is also messy business 🙂

Once I had the big pieces attached I went back in and stuck leaves and feathers wherever there were holes, working my way along the left side and tapering off at the top to achieve the asymmetry I was looking for.

Done!

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The finished wreath, ready to hang on the door!

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I hope you are inspired to create your own wreath to brighten up your door for months and years to come. Happy holidays!

DIY Dreamcatcher

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When I was a wee child I had a dreamcatcher over my bed. It was purple and turquoise, brought to me from New Mexico and I loved it. Sadly, as the years have passed neither my mother nor I can remember what happened to it. As I was browsing Pinterest recently, I came across this beauty and was inspired to remake my childhood keepsake. So here, folks, is what I did.

If you check out that link, you’ll see that they made the clever decision to use a doily as the center of the dreamcatcher. Of course, I have never been someone who makes things easy for herself, so I decided to learn and execute the traditional woven style, as explained in wonderful detail in this post.

Michael’s was having a huge sale, and I had a stash of beads and an embroidery hoop at my disposal, so I’d say this project cost me about $10, but could get up to $20 if you had to buy all the supplies at once.

Here’s what I used (or, what I planned to use. I did not end up using everything, as you’ll see at the end).

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My color palette was cream and soft dusty pink and tan. The packages of feathers and leaves included really pretty dark browns and reds, though, so I might need to make another dreamcatcher with those soon…

I started by wrapping my hoop with the lace. I didn’t need to glue it all the way around, just at the beginning/end of the hoop.

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Once that was all set I braided a few pieces of twine to make the loop that the dreamcatcher hangs from.

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Then came the intimidating part, the weaving. I am not a sewer/crocheter/knitter and it took me a while to get the hang of it. And, to be honest, took a LOT longer than I thought it would. That doily idea seemed better and better as an hour turned into two (embarrassing, but true). However, I did manage it and I was really glad I went with the weave because it reminds me so much of the little dreamcatcher of my youth.

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Can you see where I messed up right at the end? Bless you if you say no, but that wonky gap next to the center opening was NOT intentional. So, I did what any good crafter does, and I glued something pretty over it.

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All better!

Time for the creative part- all the dangly bits of ribbon, beads and feathers that give dreamcatchers their character!

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To hang everything I used my twine and a little superglue in some places to make sure everything stayed where I wanted it to. I didn’t end up using all my beads, but they will stick around for another project on another day.

Here she is, my new dreamcatcher all gussied up!

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I’m really happy with how it turned out, and it is now happily hanging over my bed. I anticipate only good dreams tonight 🙂

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! Next up, a Harry Potter themed Halloween party!