Simple Summer Market Bag

Hello summer-loving peeps! It’s time for beach days, day trips and farmer’s markets, and this handy bag has you covered! It’s the perfect size to throw your lunch and a book into or some local fruits and veggies, and it’s really cute to boot. Plus if you use recycled yarn like I did you can feel even better about making your own reusable bags! Scroll down for the easy crochet pattern, which includes picture tutorials on how to not have an obvious seam running up your bag.

Simple Summer Market Bag Crochet Pattern

Stitch abbreviations:

-Chain (CH)

-Single Crochet (SC)

-Double Crochet (DC)

Materials:

  • 2 balls worsted weight cotton yarn, solid color- Pictured is Lion Brand Re-Up yarn in Grey
  • 1 ball light (level 3) weight cotton yarn, multi-colored- Pictured is Lion Brand Comfy Cotton yarn in Mai Tai
  • Size I/9 5.5 mm crochet hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape or ruler

Special Notes:

  • Each row made in the round (R22 and on) is joined with an invisible slip stitch. I added pictures to show how to do this, but joining with a regular slip stitch is also acceptable (but the join will be visible).
  • After the invisible join, I’ve used the chainless SC and the chainless DC. I’ve included pictures that show how to do this, but regular SC and DC are also acceptable.

Pattern:

Base

Using solid color cotton yarn (yarn A), CH 41.

Row 1: SC into 2nd CH from the hook. SC across (40 SC).

R2: CH 1, turn. SC across (40 SC).

R3-18: Repeat R2 for 18 rows total.

R19: At the end of row 18, CH 1 and rotate rectangle so you’re now working on the left side edge. SC in 1st row space. Skip next space and make 2 SC’s into the next space. Repeat skip and 2 SC’s until you reach the bottom, where your starting CH was begun. (16 SC)

R20: CH 1, rotate rectangle so you’re working along the starting CH. SC in each CH loop (40 SC)

R21: CH 1, repeat R19 along the right edge of the rectangle. When you reach the end, CH 1 and invisible slip stitch into the first SC from R18.

Invisible Slip Stitch:

Remove hook from working loop and insert it into the top of the SC, back to front.
Hook loop and pull through the stitch, front to back.
Invisible slip stitch is complete.

Chainless Single Crochet:

Pull up the loop a little higher than a SC.
Insert hook into same stitch you made your invisible slip stitch.
Yarn over and pull up a loop, like a normal SC. Finish SC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

R22: Chainless SC into 1st SC. Place a stitch marker into this SC. SC around the rectangle, making 1 SC in the corner CH’s. Join to 1st chainless SC.

R23-24: Repeat R22 twice, 3 rows total. Do not join at the end of R24.

Body

R25: Finish last SC with Yarn B (Comfy Cotton yarn). Join to the chainless SC from R24. Chainless DC into the SC (see photos).

Chainless Double Crochet:

Join Yarn B in last SC of previous row.
Invisible slip stitch.
Pull up loop a little higher than a normal DC.
Keeping one finger firmly holding the first loop in place on your hook, wrap the hook around the yarn so you have two “loops” on your hook.
Insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, being careful to keep the other two loops in place on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through first two loops, like a normal DC.
Yarn over again and pull through last two loops, completing the chainless DC. Place a stitch marker in the top two loops.

Place a stitch marker into the top of the chainless DC. *CH 1, skip 1, DC into next SC*. Repeat from * to * around the base, ending with a CH 1 before joining into 1st DC.

R26: Make a chainless DC and place a stitch marker in the top two loops (do this for all rows). *CH 1, DC into the top of next DC*. Repeat from * to * around the base. (59 DC) Join to 1st chainless DC.

R27-R44: Repeat R25 for 20 DC rows total. Do not join at the end of R44.

R45: Join Yarn A and slip stitch into 1st chainless DC from R44. Chainless SC and SC around in each DC and CH space. Join.

Strap

Lay bag body flat and use a ruler or measuring tape to find the mid-point. Place a stitch marker in the middle stitch of the front and back of the bag. Count 10 SC’s on each side of the midpoint and place a stitch marker in each spot. Remove the midpoint stitch markers. You’ll have 4 stitch markers in place, two on each side, with 20 SC’s in between.

R46: Chainless SC, then SC until you reach the first stitch marker. CH 50. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around to next stitch marker on the back of the bag. CH 50 again. SC into the SC after the next stitch marker, and continue to SC around until you reach the chainless SC. Join.

R47-R50: SC around all SC’s and the CH 50’s, joining each round, for 4 rows total. Tie off after joining the last row and weave in ends.

Final measurements:

Base: 12 x 5.5 in.

Body: 15 x 15 in.

Strap: 55 in.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Crochet Plant Hanger

I live in a small apartment and my love for plants has meant that 90% of the available surfaces are covered in lovely green things. Unfortunately I need that other 10% to sleep and eat on, so I designed this cute little plant hanger so I can make use of my walls and keep this plant addiction going.

I’ve included step by step pictures along with the instructions to help you make your own little plant hanger. If you make one please be sure to tag me on Instragram (februaryskydesigns), as I’d love to see your finished products holding your plant babies!

Materials:

  • Bernat Home Dec Yarn
  • size N/10 crochet hook
  • large eye sewing needle
  • stitch markers
  • 2.5 inch wooden ring (one per planter)
  • 1.5 inch wooden ring (optional)
  • large wooden beads (optional)

Stitch abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Skip One Stitch (SK1)
  • Slip Stitch (SL ST)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Half Double Crochet (HDC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Final measurements:

Width (before hanging): 8”

Height (before hanging): 10”

Note: For this pattern, hold two strands of Bernat Home Dec yarn together and use them as one strand as you crochet. This yarn is a Bulky weight (5) yarn. Any yarn may be used for this pattern, but the size and structure might be affected.

Pattern:

Round 1: CH 20. Work 3 SC onto 2.5” wooden ring.

Continue round with 20 more CH’s. SL ST onto first CH to create a circle as you’ll be working in the round for this pattern.

Round 2: CH 2 (counts as a HDC). Place a stitch marker in the CH 2 space.

*SK1 CH, HDC into next CH, CH 1*. Repeat from * to * until you reach the 3 SC’s on the ring. Work 1 HDC into each SC.

After the 3 HDC’s, continue to CH 1, SK 1, and HDC around until you reach the end of round 1 (the beginning CH 2).

Round 3: Work HDC into the space made by the CH 2. CH 1 and continue to work HDC + CH 1 into the CH spaces from the previous round until you reach the 3 HDC’s at the ring.

Without making a CH, 2DCT in the second 2 HDC’s you made on the ring. Place a stitch marker in the 2DCT if you need help finding it for the next round.

2DCT made in 2nd 2 HDC’s.

Do not CH and make a HDC in next CH space.

HDC made in CH space next to completed 2DCT.

CH1, then continue HDC + CH around in the CH spaces.

Round 4: Continue HDC + CH1 in the CH spaces of the previous round. When you reach the 2DCT from the previous row, make a 2DCT in the top of that stitch and the next HDC.

2DCT with a stitch marker used to show the HDC where you make the second part of the 2DCT stitch.
FInished 2DCT shown, with a stitch marker to show the CH space where you make your next HDC.
HDC completed, with stitch marker used to mark the 2DCT, which is where you start your 2DCT of each round.

Rounds 5 and 6: Repeat round 4, making your 2DCT in the 2DCT from the previous row and the HDC next to it.

Stitch marker in the 2DCT.

Round 7: Continue HDC + CH1 in the CH spaces until you reach the 2DCT from Round 6.

Complete 2DCT as normal. Place a stitch marker in the CH space before the 2DCT. This is where you will complete a final SL ST.

Finished 2DCT with a stitch marker in the CH space before the stitch.

Instead of making your next HDC after the 2DCT, continue to make 2DCT stitches in the CH spaces around the circle.

Shown is 2nd 2DCT stitch made in the next 2 CH spaces after the 1st 2DCT.

Continue making 2DCT in the CH spaces until you reach the last CH space, where you placed a stitch marker. SL ST into this space.

Last CH space, where you slip stitch.
Completed round of 2DCT.

Bring a long tail through the SL ST and whip stitch around the 2DCT’s.

Pull the tail tight to close the circle. Tie off the tail, but don’t cut it off if you plan on adding a tassel.

The hard part’s over! Now you’ll want to weave in your starting tail, making sure to pull it across to make an even front edge.

Once the tail is weaved in, it’s time to make the tassel! Using one strand of your yarn, make 11 loops about 10 inches long.

Cut the loops at the ends of the strands. Grab your smaller wooden ring, a wooden bead and your sewing needle. Taking another strand of yarn, bring one end through the bead, up through the ring, and back through the bead again. Tie the ring and bead to the tassel strands in the middle.

Using another strand of yarn, tie a knot about an inch under the top of the bunch. Weave the ends of this strand back into the middle of the bunch to hide the knot a little more. Then trim the bottom of the tassel to make a neat bottom.

Using the tail you left from the end of the planter base, take another bead and bring the yarn through it once, through the wooden ring, and then back up through the bead again.

Pull tight and weave in the end inside the plant hanger. You did it! You’re finished!

Use a 3×4 inch or 4×4 inch round plant pot without holes as the base of the planter. Add a plastic insert with holes and a small plant, the drapier the better!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Peaceful Warrior Yoga Bag

I’ve been practicing yoga on and off for the past 10 years. I don’t consider myself a “yogi”, but last year I started an at-home practice using free online yoga videos, and it was honestly one of the best things I did for myself during the hardest year of my life.

Home practice is great, but there’s nothing like a studio class to feel the connection that yoga can create. I crocheted my own mat bag a couple years ago when I started taking classes at a new studio, and I’m really excited to share the pattern with you so you can make your own!

The ritual of yoga is learning balance. I named my bag pattern after the pose “Peaceful Warrior” because that is how I want to live- in a state of calm surrender, strong enough to fight when it’s needed. Yoga can be a lot of things to different people, but at it’s core it is an act of self love. Who doesn’t need more of that in their lives?

This bag is the perfect companion for your studio practice. It’s roomy so you don’t have to struggle to get your mat inside, and it’ll fit your water bottle and wallet with a front pocket for your phone and keys! The colors are endlessly customizable, so have fun making it your own!

Peaceful Warrior Yoga Bag Crochet Pattern

Materials:

  • 8 balls (120 yards each) of 100% cotton worsted weight yarn: 2 balls each of Colors A, B and C; optional small amounts (approx. 13 yards each) of 7 Chakra stripe colors, or 2 more balls of Color D of your choice.
  • I/9 Crochet Hook
  • J/10 Crochet Hook
  • Stitch markers
  • Measuring tape/ruler
  • 1-inch button
  • Large Eye sewing needle

Stitch abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Double Crochet (DC)
  • Slip Stitch (SL ST)
I recommend using recycled cotton yarn. This Re-Up yarn is what I used for the gray section of my bag and it’s really soft and easy to work with.

Pattern:

Note: The bag pictured was made holding two strands of worsted weight cotton yarn together. The measurements are based on this method and the hook sizes mentioned.

Step 1: Holding 2 stands of Color A yarn together and using the size J/10 hook, create a Magic Circle, or CH 4 and SL ST the last CH to the first CH.

Step 2: CH 2, 8 SC into the Magic Circle or the CH 4 circle. SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 3: CH 2, 2 SC in each stitch around (16 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 4: CH 2, *1 SC in first stitch, 2 SC in next stitch*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (24 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 5: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 2 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (32 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 6: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 3 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (40 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 7: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 4 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (48 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 8: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 5 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (48 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 9: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 6 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (56 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 10: CH 2, 1 SC in first stitch, *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next 7 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (64 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Step 11: CH 2, *2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 8 stitches*. Repeat * to * in each stitch around (72 SC). SL ST to 2nd CH.

Part 2:

Row 1: CH 3 (counts as a stitch). DC around all SC from previous row, no increases. SL ST to 3rd CH in CH 3.

Rows 2-6: Repeat Row 1 five more times (6 rows of DC of Color A).

Rows 7-15: Change to Color B, repeat Row 1 for 9 rows.

Rows 16-22: Optional Chakra Stripes: 7 more rows, each of a different color corresponding to the 7 chakras: red, orange, yellow, green, light blue, dark blue, purple. Or change to Color D for 7 rows.

Row 23: Last DC row in Color C.

Strap:

Step 1: Holding 2 stands of Color C together and using J hook, CH 8. SL ST to 1st CH, forming a circle.

Step 2: CH 3. DC in each CH around (7 DC). Without joining, continue to DC in a continuous loop, forming a tube.

Step 3: Continue DC until tube reaches 60 inches. To finish, SC in next ST, then SL ST to last stitch.

Step 4: Pull long tail through and sew both ends together.

Step 5: To attach the strap to the bag body, lay the bag flat with the seam in the back. Place stitch markers in the center of the front and back of the bag. Fold strap in half and attach each end to the sides of the bag with stitch markers.

Step 6: Sew the handle to the bag using Color D, leaving a gap of 4 DC’s on either side of the mid-point of the front and back of the bag.

Pocket:

Shown are two pocket options:

Option 1 on the left and Option 2 on the right.

Step 1: Using 1 stand of yarn color C and size I/9 hook, CH 17. SC in the 2nd CH from the hook, SC across (16 SC).

Step 2: CH 1, SC in back loop only across (16 SC).

Step 3: CH 1, turn, SC in the front loop of the previous row you just worked the SC in the back loops.

Shown is the row made in the front loop of the previous row, with the back loop only row in front.

Step 4: SC across. When you reach the end CH1 and SC in the next SC on the other side, completing the loop.

Step 5: SC around the loop, working 1 SC in each of the CH spaces (34 SC).

Step 6, Option 1: Repeat continuous rows of SC for 22 rows total. Skip to step 7.

Step 6, Option 2: Complete one more row of SC. Start to DC, continuing for 7 rows. SC last row.

Step 7: Decrease first 2 stitches, SC across to last 2 stitches, decrease. CH 1, turn. Repeat decrease of first 2 stitches, SC across, and decrease last 2 stitches until the final row of 2 decreases. Chain 7 and SL ST to second SC to create button loop. Weave in end.

Step 8: Sew on a button of your choice.

Pocket Option 1.
Pocket Option 2 (shown in final product photos).

Final measurements:

Width: 12 in./30 cm.

Height (with mat inside): 18 in./46 cm.

Namaste!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

The February Sky Scarf

When I decided to start blogging about crochet projects I knew I wanted to create a pattern that I could name after my blog. A signature item, if you will. It’s kind of corny, but after many tests and trials and failures and finally success, I’m proud to call this pattern the February Sky Scarf.

I’ve always been a scarf person and I made this one exactly how I like my scarves- long enough to wrap twice around my neck without being tight, a loose fabric that drapes nicely, and an interesting stitch that looks more complicated than it is.

The pattern uses a two-row repeat and only uses one slightly advanced technique (double crocheting stitches together), but once you get the hang of it you’ll have the scarf done in no time.

I made the scarf using two different colors of Caron Simply Soft and the ombre yarn made a really cool gently striped effect.

Materials

  • 2 skeins of Caron Simply Soft- (the solid purple is ‘Purple’ and the striped is ‘Grape Purple Ombre’)
  • Size N hook
  • Large Eye Thread Needle

Stitches:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Double Crochet (DC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)
  • Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Three Double Crochet Together (3DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops (three loops on hook). Yarn over and insert hook into third stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, then yarn over and pull through remaining four loops. Stitch finished.

PATTERN

Holding two strands of yarn together (if using Caron Simply Soft or similar worsted weight yarn), chain 18.

Row 1: SC in the 2nd CH from hook. *Skip a stitch. Make 3 DC’s (not 3DCT, 3 separate DC’s) in the same stitch. Skip one. SC.* Repeat from * to * across, ending in a SC.

Row 2: Turn. CH 2 (does not count as a stitch). In the 1st 2 stitches, 2DCT. *CH 1. SC in the next stitch (middle DC from previous row). CH 1, do not skip a stitch, and 3DCT in the next 3 stitches.* Repeat from * to * twice more. CH 1, SC, CH 1, end with 2DCT in the last 2 stitches.

Row 3: Turn. CH 1. SC in the first stitch (the top of the 2DCT from the last row). *Skip a stitch (the chain from the last row) and make 3 DC’s in the next stitch (the SC from the previous row). Skip a stitch (CH from last row), and SC (in the top of the 3DCT)*. Repeat from * to * across, ending with a SC in the last stitch.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until scarf reaches desired length. My finished scarf was 60 inches long before I sewed the ends together. You can leave it open or create an infinity scarf, which is 30 inches long and wraps around the neck twice. Adjust the sizing to however fits you best!

I hope you’ll try it and feel empowered when you wear it. For me, it symbolizes going after my goals, even when they’re half-formed and take a lot more work than I originally thought. And beyond any symbolism, I think it’s really pretty and I hope you do too.

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs.  Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog februaryskydesigns.com. Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

Two-Toned Tassel Baby Blanket

I love making blankets for friends and family who are having babies and imagining them wrapping their little bundles in something soft and warm and made with love.

This beginner-friendly blanket is worked up quickly using the moss stitch and super bulky yarn and is a perfect gift for winter babies.

The Two-toned Tassel Baby Blanket uses two contrasting colors and the rows are staggered so the colors fade into each other. This is the perfect blanket for tucking into a stroller on a windy day or laying out on the rug for play time.

Materials

  • 6 skeins, 3 of each color, of super bulky (level 6) yarn. I used Lion Brand Yarn’s Hometown USA in Springfield Silver and Montpelier Peacock
  • Size P hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Piece of cardboard, 4×4 inches
  • Scissors

Stitches Used

  • Chain (CH)
  • Single Crochet (SC)

Notes

The finished blanket is 30 inches by 30 inches (without the tassels). To achieve the fading effect, the rows of each color increase/decrease evenly. For the baby blanket size, my biggest block of each color at the end of the blanket has 7 rows. To increase the size of the blanket, increase the starting chain any even number amount and follow the diagram below to increase the overall number of rows of each color.

Pattern

  • Starting with Color A, CH 56
  • Row 1: SC in second stitch from the hook, CH 1, skip next stitch, SC in the next stitch, CH1, and repeat across, ending with a SC in the last stitch.
  • Row 2: CH 1, turn. SC in the first stitch. SC in the chain spaces from previous row with chains in between (“moss stitch”). End with a SC in the last stitch.
  • Rows 3-7: Repeat Row 2.7 rows of Color A.
  • Row 8: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 1 row.
  • Rows 9-14: Join with Color A, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 6 rows.
  • Rows 15-16: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 2 rows.
  • Rows 17-21: Join with Color A, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 5 rows.
  • Rows 22-24: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 3 rows.
  • Rows 25-28: Join with Color A, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 4 rows.
  • Rows 29-32: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 4 rows.
  • Rows 33-35: Join with Color A, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 3 rows.
  • Rows 36-40: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 5 rows.
  • Rows 41-42: Join with Color A, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 2 rows.
  • Rows 43-48: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 6 rows.
  • Row 49: Join with Color A, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 1 row.
  • Rows 50-56: Join with Color B, CH 1 and turn. Moss stitch across, starting and ending with a SC. 7 rows. Tie off and weave in ends!

To make the tassels:

Cut a piece of cardboard to about 4 inches square. I used an old snack box for mine.

Wrap the yarn around the cardboard about 25 times. Using a second piece of yarn, tie off the top of the bundle and slide off the cardboard. Tie it tightly, leaving the two ends about 6 inches long to tie onto the blanket. Cut through the loops at the other end.

Using a third piece of yarn about 6 inches long, tie the middle of the bundle to create the tassel shape.

Trim the bottom of the tassel so the ends are even. Make 6 tassels from Color A and Color B, 12 total. Ready to attach!

For my blanket, I started 4 inches from one side of the top and attached a tassel every 4 inches across, using the contrasting color tassels for each side. Use a tapestry needle to pull the ties back through the tassels to make them more secure.

That’s it! I hope you enjoy making this blanket for a new baby in your life. Follow me on Instagram for more crochet goodness. ~