Crochet Plant Hanger

I live in a small apartment and my love for plants has meant that 90% of the available surfaces are covered in lovely green things. Unfortunately I need that other 10% to sleep and eat on, so I designed this cute little plant hanger so I can make use of my walls and keep this plant addiction going.

I’ve included step by step pictures along with the instructions to help you make your own little plant hanger. If you make one please be sure to tag me on Instragram (februaryskydesigns), as I’d love to see your finished products holding your plant babies!


  • Bernat Home Dec Yarn
  • size N/10 crochet hook
  • large eye sewing needle
  • stitch markers
  • 2.5 inch wooden ring (one per planter)
  • 1.5 inch wooden ring (optional)
  • large wooden beads (optional)

Stitch abbreviations:

  • Chain (CH)
  • Skip One Stitch (SK1)
  • Slip Stitch (SL ST)
  • Single Crochet (SC)
  • Half Double Crochet (HDC)
  • Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT)

Special Stitches:

Two Double Crochet Together (2DCT): Yarn over, insert hook into first stitch, yarn over and pull up one loop (three loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through first two loops, yarn over and pull through last three loops. Stitch finished.

Final measurements:

Width (before hanging): 8”

Height (before hanging): 10”

Note: For this pattern, hold two strands of Bernat Home Dec yarn together and use them as one strand as you crochet. This yarn is a Bulky weight (5) yarn. Any yarn may be used for this pattern, but the size and structure might be affected.


Round 1: CH 20. Work 3 SC onto 2.5” wooden ring.

Continue round with 20 more CH’s. SL ST onto first CH to create a circle as you’ll be working in the round for this pattern.

Round 2: CH 2 (counts as a HDC). Place a stitch marker in the CH 2 space.

*SK1 CH, HDC into next CH, CH 1*. Repeat from * to * until you reach the 3 SC’s on the ring. Work 1 HDC into each SC.

After the 3 HDC’s, continue to CH 1, SK 1, and HDC around until you reach the end of round 1 (the beginning CH 2).

Round 3: Work HDC into the space made by the CH 2. CH 1 and continue to work HDC + CH 1 into the CH spaces from the previous round until you reach the 3 HDC’s at the ring.

Without making a CH, 2DCT in the second 2 HDC’s you made on the ring. Place a stitch marker in the 2DCT if you need help finding it for the next round.

2DCT made in 2nd 2 HDC’s.

Do not CH and make a HDC in next CH space.

HDC made in CH space next to completed 2DCT.

CH1, then continue HDC + CH around in the CH spaces.

Round 4: Continue HDC + CH1 in the CH spaces of the previous round. When you reach the 2DCT from the previous row, make a 2DCT in the top of that stitch and the next HDC.

2DCT with a stitch marker used to show the HDC where you make the second part of the 2DCT stitch.
FInished 2DCT shown, with a stitch marker to show the CH space where you make your next HDC.
HDC completed, with stitch marker used to mark the 2DCT, which is where you start your 2DCT of each round.

Rounds 5 and 6: Repeat round 4, making your 2DCT in the 2DCT from the previous row and the HDC next to it.

Stitch marker in the 2DCT.

Round 7: Continue HDC + CH1 in the CH spaces until you reach the 2DCT from Round 6.

Complete 2DCT as normal. Place a stitch marker in the CH space before the 2DCT. This is where you will complete a final SL ST.

Finished 2DCT with a stitch marker in the CH space before the stitch.

Instead of making your next HDC after the 2DCT, continue to make 2DCT stitches in the CH spaces around the circle.

Shown is 2nd 2DCT stitch made in the next 2 CH spaces after the 1st 2DCT.

Continue making 2DCT in the CH spaces until you reach the last CH space, where you placed a stitch marker. SL ST into this space.

Last CH space, where you slip stitch.
Completed round of 2DCT.

Bring a long tail through the SL ST and whip stitch around the 2DCT’s.

Pull the tail tight to close the circle. Tie off the tail, but don’t cut it off if you plan on adding a tassel.

The hard part’s over! Now you’ll want to weave in your starting tail, making sure to pull it across to make an even front edge.

Once the tail is weaved in, it’s time to make the tassel! Using one strand of your yarn, make 11 loops about 10 inches long.

Cut the loops at the ends of the strands. Grab your smaller wooden ring, a wooden bead and your sewing needle. Taking another strand of yarn, bring one end through the bead, up through the ring, and back through the bead again. Tie the ring and bead to the tassel strands in the middle.

Using another strand of yarn, tie a knot about an inch under the top of the bunch. Weave the ends of this strand back into the middle of the bunch to hide the knot a little more. Then trim the bottom of the tassel to make a neat bottom.

Using the tail you left from the end of the planter base, take another bead and bring the yarn through it once, through the wooden ring, and then back up through the bead again.

Pull tight and weave in the end inside the plant hanger. You did it! You’re finished!

Use a 3×4 inch or 4×4 inch round plant pot without holes as the base of the planter. Add a plastic insert with holes and a small plant, the drapier the better!

This is an original pattern by Christina of February Sky Designs. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to it but please do not reprint it on your site or sell it.

You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Christina of February Sky Designs, and link to my blog Thank you for respecting creators and their work!

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